5" Brazilian Cherry Select (Clearance Item)

WESTHOLLOW® EXOTIC WOOD

NAIL/STAPLE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDE

Inspect all materials carefully before installation. Warranties do not cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the jobsite sub floor and jobsite conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood flooring installation. We will decline any responsibility for wood floor failure resulting from or connected with sub floor, subsurface, jobsite damage or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed.

Wood is hydroscopic. It will absorb and expel moisture based on its environment. With our construction, these changes are greatly reduced. However temperature and humidity must be brought to normal usage levels at least 14 days before installation and maintained at those levels after installation.

PREPARATION

Remove paint, wax oil, plaster, "sheetrock mud" and other foreign materials, as well as surface irregularities. Heavy grit open coat paper may need to be used to grind a concrete floor. This will loosen any dirt, loose concrete or contaminates. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly. All previously or existing glue or adhesives must be removed before installing new hardwood flooring. All sub floors and sub floor systems must be structurally sound and must be installed following their manufacturer's recommendations. Our warranty does not cover any problems caused by inadequate substructures or improper installation of said substructures.

MAKE SURE ALL WORK AREAS ARE DRY

Interior walls should be dry enough to be painted and a normal room temperature should be attained with a relative humidity of 28-40%, should be provided before any installation is begun. If plywood is used as an overlay over an existing sub floor, the thickness of the overlay material must be such as to yield a total of 3/4" subfloor thickness.

New wood type sub floors should also be checked for moisture using a moisture meter. In general, wood or plywood sub floors should not exceed 11% moisture content or 4% moisture content difference between wood flooring and sub floor.

SUB FLOOR PREPARATION

Evaluate the job site. Always check the job site for satisfactory conditions. The sub floor must be clean, dry, firm and flat. Sub floor irregularities and undulation may cause any wood flooring installation to develop hollow spots between the flooring and the sub floor. These hollow spots are not the result of any wood flooring manufacturing defect and are not covered by this warranty. As part of your sub floor preparation remove any existing base, shoe mold or doorway thresholds. These items can be replaced after installation, but should be replaced in such a way as to allow room for expansion around the perimeter of the room. All door casings should be notched out or undercut to allow for expansion and to avoid difficult scribe cuts. This is easily done by placing a piece of the bamboo product on the sub floor as a height guide for your handsaw of jamb saw. When you are ready to begin, open a few cartons and inspect each plank for quality.

PROCEDURES

Because the humidity of the room can vary, due to differences between the seasons for example, the floor must be able to expand in all directions. The floor must be able to expand or contract on ALL sides. To facilitate this, an expansion gap is provided at all walls of 1/2". A gap must also be provided around pipes or at thresholds.

Take account of the fact that the floor may move in one direction. Where possible, provide expansion gaps, for example, under doors. The moldings are not fixed to the real wood floor but to the base floor or the wall covers these gaps.

Choose a wall to start on. Place expansion shims against the entire perimeter of the room. Lay the first with the groove against wall. Nail or staple tongue in the nail pocket of the first row. Nailing pattern should be every 6" or closer. You may want to face nail the first row close to the wall so the base molding will cover when finished.

After the first row is secure, engage the planks, one at a time to start the second row. Nail/staple each plank in the tongue nail pocket as you go to secure into position. Proceed by sliding each individual board into place making sure both the tongue and groove are tight, along with the butt joints. To ensure a random pattern, make sure butt joints are at least 6" from the butt joint of the prior row. Proceed with this procedure until you have come to the final row to complete the room.

When you have reached the final row, you will need to measure the width of the final planks. You may need to rip the planks to match the width of the space remaining. Make sure the expansion shims are in place and take the shim width into consideration when ripping the final row. The tongue for the final row will need to be removed for a clean fit. Slide the planks groove into the tongue and use a pry bar to snug the last row of planks with the completed second to last row. You again will need to face nail close to the wall to secure. Make sure you nail close enough to the wall so that the base molding will cover nails.

FINAL INSPECTION

After the floor has been cleaned, inspect the floor for nicks, scratches, gaps, or planks that may have moved during installation, as well as any other imperfections that need attention. Touch up nicks and scratches with touch-up products.

FLOOR PROTECTION DURING CONSTRUCTION

Always protect the surface of the installed flooring during construction by laying a quality rosin paper, or other paper that will allow the floor to breathe, over the floor and taping it to the baseboards. Never use plastic or polyethylene sheeting to cover the floor since they will trap moisture that will damage the flooring.

PLEASE NOTE Responsibility for final inspection and approval falls to the customer and installer prior to permanent installation. It is the installer's responsibility to check color, finish and quality before installation. If your installer is not satisfied with our flooring prior to installation, then do not install the floor and contact us right away. We are not responsible for any costs associated with repairing or replacing boards that were installed with evident defects.

Westhollow® Premiere Solid Oak Installation Instructions

GENERAL NOTES

Inspect all materials carefully before installation. Warranties do not cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the jobsite sub floor and jobsite conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood flooring installation. We will decline any responsibility for wood floor failure resulting from or connected with sub floor, subsurface, jobsite damage or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed.

Wood is hydroscopic. It will absorb and expel moisture based on its environment. With our construction, these changes are greatly reduced. However temperature and humidity must be brought to normal usage levels at least 14 days before installation and maintained at those levels after installation.

Time at which to install your hardwood flooring: Lay only after sheetrock and tile work are thoroughly dried and all but the final woodwork and trim have been completed. The building interior should have been dried and seasoned and a comfortable working temperature should exist prior, during and after the installation.

PREPARATION

Remove paint, wax oil, plaster, "sheetrock mud" and other foreign materials, as well as surface irregularities. Heavy grit open coat paper may need to be used to grind a concrete floor. This will loosen any dirt, loose concrete or contaminates. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly. All previously or existing glue or adhesives must be removed before installing new hardwood flooring. All sub floors and sub floor systems must be structurally sound and must be installed following their manufacturer's recommendations. Our warranty does not cover any problems caused by inadequate substructures or improper installation of said substructures.

Evaluate the job site. Always check the job site for satisfactory conditions. The sub floor must be clean, dry, firm and flat. Refer to the NWFA Technical Manual for required conditions. When you are ready to begin, open a few cartons and inspect each plank for quality.

MAKE SURE ALL WORK AREAS ARE DRY

Interior walls should be dry enough to be painted and a normal room temperature should be attained with a relative humidity of 28-40%, should be provided before any installation is begun. If plywood is used as an overlay over an existing sub floor, the thickness of the overlay material must be such as to yield a total of 3/4" subfloor thickness.

New wood type sub floors should also be checked for moisture using a moisture meter. In general, wood or plywood sub floors should not exceed 11% moisture content or 4% moisture content difference between wood flooring and sub floor.

New wood type sub floors should also be checked for moisture using a moisture meter. In general, wood or plywood sub floors should not exceed 12% moisture content or 5% moisture content difference between wood flooring and sub floor.

SUB FLOOR PREPARATION

Sub floor irregularities and undulation may cause any wood flooring installation to develop hollow spots between the flooring and the sub floor. These hollow spots are not the result of any wood flooring manufacturing defect and are not covered by the Owens Flooring warranty. As part of your sub floor preparation remove any existing base, shoe mold or doorway thresholds. These items can be replaced after installation, but should be replaced in such a way as to allow room for expansion around the perimeter of the room. All door casings should be notched out or undercut to allow for expansion and to avoid difficult scribe cuts. This is easily done by placing a piece of the engineered product on the sub floor as a height guide for your handsaw of jamb saw.

PROCEDURES

Wood is the primary constituent of this flooring. Because the humidity of the room can vary, due to differences between the seasons for example, the floor must be able to expand in all directions. The floor must be able to expand or contract on ALL sides. To facilitate this, an expansion gap is provided at all walls of 1/2". A gap must also be provided around pipes or at thresholds.

Take account of the fact that the floor may move in one direction. Where possible, provide expansion gaps, for example, under doors. The moldings are not fixed to the real wood floor but to the base floor or the wall covers these gaps.

Choose a wall to start on. Place expansion shims against the entire perimeter of the room. Lay the first with the groove against wall. Nail or staple tongue in the nail pocket of the first row. Nailing pattern should be every 6" or closer. You may want to face nail the first row close to the wall so the base molding will cover when finished.

After the first row is secure, engage the planks, one at a time to start the second row. Nail/staple each plank in the tongue nail pocket as you go to secure into position. Proceed by sliding each individual board into place making sure both the tongue and groove are tight, along with the butt joints. To ensure a random pattern, make sure butt joints are at least 6" from the butt joint of the prior row. Proceed with this procedure until you have come to the final row to complete the room.

When you have reached the final row, you will need to measure the width of the final planks. You may need to rip the planks to match the width of the space remaining. Make sure the expansion shims are in place and take the shim width into consideration when ripping the final row. The tongue for the final row will need to be removed for a clean fit. Slide the planks groove into the tongue and use a pry bar to snug the last row of planks with the completed second to last row. You again will need to face nail close to the wall to secure. Make sure you nail close enough to the wall so that the base molding will cover nails.

FINAL INSPECTION

After the floor has been cleaned, inspect the floor for nicks, scratches, gaps, or planks that may have moved during installation, as well as any other imperfections that need attention. Touch up nicks and scratches with touch-up products.

FLOOR PROTECTION DURING CONSTRUCTION

Always protect the surface of the installed flooring during construction by laying a quality rosin paper, or other paper that will allow the floor to breathe, over the floor and taping it to the baseboards. Never use plastic or polyethylene sheeting to cover the floor since they will trap moisture that will damage the flooring.

3/8" ENGINEERED HARDWOOD FLOORING

GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDE

General Notes

Inspect all materials carefully before installation. Warranties do not cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the jobsite subfloor and jobsite conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood flooring installation. We will decline any responsibility for wood floor failure resulting from or connected with subfloor, subsurface, jobsite damage, or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed.

Wood is hydroscopic. It will absorb and expel moisture based on its environment. With our multi-ply construction, these changes are greatly reduced. However temperature and humidity must be brought to normal usage levels at least 96 hours before installation and maintained at those levels after installation.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Time at which to install your hardwood flooring: Lay only after sheetrock and tile work are thoroughly dried and all but the final woodwork and trim have been completed. The building interior should have been dried and seasoned and a comfortable working temperature should exist prior, during and after the installation.

Preparation

Remove paint, wax oil, plaster, "sheetrock mud" and other foreign materials, as well as surface irregularities. Heavy grit open coat paper may need to be used to grind a concrete floor. This will loosen any dirt, loose concrete or contaminates. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly. All previously or existing glues or adhesives must be removed before installing new hardwood flooring. All subfloors and subfloor systems must be structurally sound and must be installed following their manufacturer's recommendations. Our warranty does not cover any problems caused by inadequate substructures or improper installation of said substructures.

MAKE SURE ALL WORK AREAS ARE DRY

Interior walls should be dry enough to be painted and a room temperature as required by adhesive manufacturer with a relative humidity of 35-48%, should be provided before any installation is begun. If subfloor is concrete, check for dryness; use the standard rubber mat or taped plastic test. Remove after 24 hours, then visually inspect for moisture. If moisture is present, do not lay flooring. All concrete subfloors on, or below, grade can also be tested using an approved moisture detection procedure. Check floor in several locations. Also if the subfloor moisture content registered after a calcium chloride test should not be greater than 10% or 3 pounds per 1000 square feet of area. If it exceeds these limits, do not install the flooring.

Concrete subfloors must be clean, flat, sound and of sufficient compression strength (3000lbs PSI) being sure that the surface is not slick. Sections not flat such as waviness, trowel marks, etc. are to be eliminated by grinding or the use of a latex-leveling compound. Especially along the walls, the subfloor flatness must be checked and if necessary improved (Flat to 1/8" in 8' radius). In addition to concrete subfloors, these products can be installed over dry, flat wood subfloors, such as plywood. If plywood is used as an overlay over an existing subfloor, the thickness of the overlay material much be such as to yield a total 3/4" subfloor thickness.

New wood-type subfloors should also be checked for moisture using a moisture meter. In general, wood or plywood subfloors should not exceed 12% moisture content or 4% moisture content difference between wood flooring and subfloor.

Subfloor Preparation

Subfloor irregularities and undulation may cause any wood flooring installation to develop hollow spots between the flooring and the subfloor. These hollow spots are not the result of any wood flooring manufacturing defect and are not covered by the flooring warranty. As part of your subfloor preparation remove any existing base, shoe mold or doorway thresholds. These items can be replaced after installation, but should be replaced in such a way as to allow room for expansion around the perimeter of the room. All door casings should be notched out or undercut to allow for expansion and to avoid difficult scribe cuts. This is easily done by placing a piece of the engineered product on the subfloor as a height guide for your handsaw or jamb saw.

Wet Lay Installation

When using this method, flooring is placed into "wet" adhesive and workers do not walk on wood. Do not walk on fresh laid flooring. Ensure starter rows are firmly in place by wedging or face nailing. Proper humidity must be controlled between 35-48% for successful performance during and after installation. We recommend MASTER 400 Acrylic Urethane Hardwood Flooring Adhesive Recommended trowel size is 3/16" by 5/32" V-Notch. Coverage is 50 square feet per gallon.

INSTALLING THE FLOOR

The floor should be installed from several boxes at the same time to ensure a good mix of materials. End joints should never be closer than 6" from each other. Install tongue into groove. Lift a plank periodically to check for adhesive transfer (approx 80% glue to flooring).

Wood is the primary constituent of this flooring. Because the humidity of the room can vary, due to differences between the seasons for example, the floor must be able to expand in all directions. The floor must be able to expand or contract on ALL sides. To facilitate this, an expansion gap is provided at all walls of 1/2". A gap must also be provided around pipes or at thresholds.

Take account of the fact that the floor may move in one direction. Where possible, provide expansion gaps, for example, under doors. The moldings are not fixed to the real wood floor but to the base floor or the wall to cover these gaps.

Final Inspection

After the floor has been cleaned, inspect the floor for nicks, scratches, gaps, or planks that may have moved during installation, as well as any other imperfections that need attention. Touch up nicks and scratches with touch-up products.

Floor Protection During Construction

Always protect the surface of the installed flooring during construction by laying a quality rosin paper, or other paper that will allow the floor to breathe, over the floor and taping it to the baseboards. Never use plastic or polyethylene sheeting to cover the floor since they will trap moisture that will damage the flooring.



NAIL/STAPLE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDE

General Notes

Inspect all materials carefully before installation. Warranties do not cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the jobsite subfloor and jobsite conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood flooring installation. We will decline any responsibility for wood floor failure resulting from or connected with subfloor, subsurface, jobsite damage or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed.

Wood is hydroscopic. It will absorb and expel moisture based on its environment. With our multi-ply construction, these changes are greatly reduced. However temperature and humidity must be brought to normal usage levels at least 96 hours before installation and maintained at those levels after installation.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Preparation

Evaluate the job site. Always check the job site for satisfactory conditions. The subfloor must be clean, dry, firm, and flat. Refer to the NWFA Technical Manual for required conditions. When you are ready to begin, open a few cartons and inspect each plank for quality.

Procedures

Wood is the primary constituent of this flooring. Because the humidity of the room can vary, due to differences between the seasons for example, the floor must be able to expand in all directions. The floor must be able to expand or contract on ALL sides. To facilitate this, an expansion gap is provided at all walls of 1/2". A gap must also be provided around pipes or at thresholds.

Take account of the fact that the floor may move in one direction. Where possible, provide expansion gaps, for example, under doors. The moldings are not fixed to the real wood floor but to the base floor or the wall to cover these gaps.

Choose a wall to start on. Place expansion shims against the entire perimeter of the room. Lay the first with the groove against wall. Nail or staple tongue in the nail pocket of the first row. Nailing pattern should be every 6" or closer. You may want to face nail the first row close to the wall so the base molding will cover when finished.

After the first row is secure, engage the planks, one at a time to start the second row. Nail/staple each plank in the tongue nail pocket as you go to secure into position. Proceed by sliding each individual board into place making sure both the tongue and groove are tight, along with the butt joints. To ensure a random pattern, make sure butt joints are at least 6" from the butt joint of the prior row. Proceed with this procedure until you have come to the final row to complete the room.

When you have reached the final row, you will need to measure the width of the final planks. You may need to rip the planks to match the width of the space remaining. Make sure the expansion shims are in place and take the shim width into consideration when ripping the final row. The tongue for the final row will need to be removed for a clean fit. Slide the plank's groove into the tongue and use a pry bar to snug the last row of planks with the completed second to last row. You again will need to face nail close to the wall to secure. Make sure you nail close enough to the wall so that the base molding will cover nails.

Final Inspection

After the floor has been cleaned, inspect the floor for nicks, scratches, gaps, or planks that may have moved during installation, as well as any other imperfections that need attention. Touch up nicks and scratches with touch-up products.

Floor Protection During Construction

Always protect the surface of the installed flooring during construction by laying a quality rosin paper, or other paper that will allow the floor to breathe, over the floor and taping it to the baseboards. Never use plastic or polyethylene sheeting to cover the floor since they will trap moisture that will damage the flooring.

3/4" SOLID HARDWOOD FLOORING

NAIL/STAPLE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDE

General Notes

Inspect all materials carefully before installation. Warranties do not cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the jobsite subfloor and jobsite conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood flooring installation. We will decline any responsibility for wood floor failure resulting from or connected with subfloor, subsurface, jobsite damage or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed.

Wood is hydroscopic. It will absorb and expel moisture based on its environment. With our multi-ply construction, these changes are greatly reduced. However temperature and humidity must be brought to normal usage levels at least 96 hours before installation and maintained at those levels after installation.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Preparation

Evaluate the job site. Always check the job site for satisfactory conditions. The subfloor must be clean, dry, firm, and flat. Refer to the NWFA Technical Manual for required conditions. When you are ready to begin, open a few cartons and inspect each plank for quality.

Procedures

Wood is the primary constituent of this flooring. Because the humidity of the room can vary, due to differences between the seasons for example, the floor must be able to expand in all directions. The floor must be able to expand or contract on ALL sides. To facilitate this, an expansion gap is provided at all walls of 1/2". A gap must also be provided around pipes or at thresholds.

Take account of the fact that the floor may move in one direction. Where possible, provide expansion gaps, for example, under doors. The moldings are not fixed to the real wood floor but to the base floor or the wall to cover these gaps.

Choose a wall to start on. Place expansion shims against the entire perimeter of the room. Lay the first with the groove against wall. Nail or staple tongue in the nail pocket of the first row. Nailing pattern should be every 6" or closer. You may want to face nail the first row close to the wall so the base molding will cover when finished.

After the first row is secure, engage the planks, one at a time to start the second row. Nail/staple each plank in the tongue nail pocket as you go to secure into position. Proceed by sliding each individual board into place making sure both the tongue and groove are tight, along with the butt joints. To ensure a random pattern, make sure butt joints are at least 6" from the butt joint of the prior row. Proceed with this procedure until you have come to the final row to complete the room.

When you have reached the final row, you will need to measure the width of the final planks. You may need to rip the planks to match the width of the space remaining. Make sure the expansion shims are in place and take the shim width into consideration when ripping the final row. The tongue for the final row will need to be removed for a clean fit. Slide the plank's groove into the tongue and use a pry bar to snug the last row of planks with the completed second to last row. You again will need to face nail close to the wall to secure. Make sure you nail close enough to the wall so that the base molding will cover nails.

Final Inspection

After the floor has been cleaned, inspect the floor for nicks, scratches, gaps, or planks that may have moved during installation, as well as any other imperfections that need attention. Touch up nicks and scratches with touch-up products.

Floor Protection During Construction

Always protect the surface of the installed flooring during construction by laying a quality rosin paper, or other paper that will allow the floor to breathe, over the floor and taping it to the baseboards. Never use plastic or polyethylene sheeting to cover the floor since they will trap moisture that will damage the flooring.

NATURAL SELECTION 5/16" SOLID HARDWOOD FLOORING

GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDE

General Notes

Inspect all materials carefully before installation. Warranties do not cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the jobsite subfloor and jobsite conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood flooring installation. We will decline any responsibility for wood floor failure resulting from or connected with subfloor, subsurface, jobsite damage, or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed.

Wood is hydroscopic. It will absorb and expel moisture based on its environment. With our multi-ply construction, these changes are greatly reduced. However temperature and humidity must be brought to normal usage levels at least 96 hours before installation and maintained at those levels after installation.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Time at which to install your hardwood flooring: Lay only after sheetrock and tile work are thoroughly dried and all but the final woodwork and trim have been completed. The building interior should have been dried and seasoned and a comfortable working temperature should exist prior, during and after the installation.

Preparation

Remove paint, wax oil, plaster, "sheetrock mud" and other foreign materials, as well as surface irregularities. Heavy grit open coat paper may need to be used to grind a concrete floor. This will loosen any dirt, loose concrete or contaminates. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly. All previously or existing glues or adhesives must be removed before installing new hardwood flooring. All subfloors and subfloor systems must be structurally sound and must be installed following their manufacturer's recommendations. Our warranty does not cover any problems caused by inadequate substructures or improper installation of said substructures.

MAKE SURE ALL WORK AREAS ARE DRY

Interior walls should be dry enough to be painted and a room temperature as required by adhesive manufacturer with a relative humidity of 35-48%, should be provided before any installation is begun. If subfloor is concrete, check for dryness; use the standard rubber mat or taped plastic test. Remove after 24 hours, then visually inspect for moisture. If moisture is present, do not lay flooring. All concrete subfloors on, or below, grade can also be tested using an approved moisture detection procedure. Check floor in several locations. Also if the subfloor moisture content registered after a calcium chloride test should not be greater than 10% or 3 pounds per 1000 square feet of area. If it exceeds these limits, do not install the flooring.

Concrete subfloors must be clean, flat, sound and of sufficient compression strength (3000lbs PSI) being sure that the surface is not slick. Sections not flat such as waviness, trowel marks, etc. are to be eliminated by grinding or the use of a latex-leveling compound. Especially along the walls, the subfloor flatness must be checked and if necessary improved (Flat to 1/8" in 8' radius). In addition to concrete subfloors, these products can be installed over dry, flat wood subfloors, such as plywood. If plywood is used as an overlay over an existing subfloor, the thickness of the overlay material much be such as to yield a total 3/4" subfloor thickness.

New wood-type subfloors should also be checked for moisture using a moisture meter. In general, wood or plywood subfloors should not exceed 12% moisture content or 4% moisture content difference between wood flooring and subfloor.

Subfloor Preparation

Subfloor irregularities and undulation may cause any wood flooring installation to develop hollow spots between the flooring and the subfloor. These hollow spots are not the result of any wood flooring manufacturing defect and are not covered by the flooring warranty. As part of your subfloor preparation remove any existing base, shoe mold or doorway thresholds. These items can be replaced after installation, but should be replaced in such a way as to allow room for expansion around the perimeter of the room. All door casings should be notched out or undercut to allow for expansion and to avoid difficult scribe cuts. This is easily done by placing a piece of the engineered product on the subfloor as a height guide for your handsaw or jamb saw.

Wet Lay Installation

When using this method, flooring is placed into "wet" adhesive and workers do not walk on wood. Do not walk on fresh laid flooring. Ensure starter rows are firmly in place by wedging or face nailing. Proper humidity must be controlled between 35-48% for successful performance during and after installation. We recommend MASTER 400 Acrylic Urethane Hardwood Flooring Adhesive Recommended trowel size is 3/16" by 5/32" V-Notch. Coverage is 50 square feet per gallon.

INSTALLING THE FLOOR

The floor should be installed from several boxes at the same time to ensure a good mix of materials. End joints should never be closer than 6" from each other. Install tongue into groove. Lift a plank periodically to check for adhesive transfer (approx 80% glue to flooring).

Wood is the primary constituent of this flooring. Because the humidity of the room can vary, due to differences between the seasons for example, the floor must be able to expand in all directions. The floor must be able to expand or contract on ALL sides. To facilitate this, an expansion gap is provided at all walls of 1/2". A gap must also be provided around pipes or at thresholds.

Take account of the fact that the floor may move in one direction. Where possible, provide expansion gaps, for example, under doors. The moldings are not fixed to the real wood floor but to the base floor or the wall to cover these gaps.

Final Inspection

After the floor has been cleaned, inspect the floor for nicks, scratches, gaps, or planks that may have moved during installation, as well as any other imperfections that need attention. Touch up nicks and scratches with touch-up products.

Floor Protection During Construction

Always protect the surface of the installed flooring during construction by laying a quality rosin paper, or other paper that will allow the floor to breathe, over the floor and taping it to the baseboards. Never use plastic or polyethylene sheeting to cover the floor since they will trap moisture that will damage the flooring.



NAIL/STAPLE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDE

General Notes

Inspect all materials carefully before installation. Warranties do not cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the jobsite subfloor and jobsite conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood flooring installation. We will decline any responsibility for wood floor failure resulting from or connected with subfloor, subsurface, jobsite damage or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed.

Wood is hydroscopic. It will absorb and expel moisture based on its environment. With our multi-ply construction, these changes are greatly reduced. However temperature and humidity must be brought to normal usage levels at least 96 hours before installation and maintained at those levels after installation.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Preparation

Evaluate the job site. Always check the job site for satisfactory conditions. The subfloor must be clean, dry, firm, and flat. Refer to the NWFA Technical Manual for required conditions. When you are ready to begin, open a few cartons and inspect each plank for quality.

Procedures

Wood is the primary constituent of this flooring. Because the humidity of the room can vary, due to differences between the seasons for example, the floor must be able to expand in all directions. The floor must be able to expand or contract on ALL sides. To facilitate this, an expansion gap is provided at all walls of 1/2". A gap must also be provided around pipes or at thresholds.

Take account of the fact that the floor may move in one direction. Where possible, provide expansion gaps, for example, under doors. The moldings are not fixed to the real wood floor but to the base floor or the wall to cover these gaps.

Choose a wall to start on. Place expansion shims against the entire perimeter of the room. Lay the first with the groove against wall. Nail or staple tongue in the nail pocket of the first row. Nailing pattern should be every 6" or closer. You may want to face nail the first row close to the wall so the base molding will cover when finished.

After the first row is secure, engage the planks, one at a time to start the second row. Nail/staple each plank in the tongue nail pocket as you go to secure into position. Proceed by sliding each individual board into place making sure both the tongue and groove are tight, along with the butt joints. To ensure a random pattern, make sure butt joints are at least 6" from the butt joint of the prior row. Proceed with this procedure until you have come to the final row to complete the room.

When you have reached the final row, you will need to measure the width of the final planks. You may need to rip the planks to match the width of the space remaining. Make sure the expansion shims are in place and take the shim width into consideration when ripping the final row. The tongue for the final row will need to be removed for a clean fit. Slide the plank's groove into the tongue and use a pry bar to snug the last row of planks with the completed second to last row. You again will need to face nail close to the wall to secure. Make sure you nail close enough to the wall so that the base molding will cover nails.

Final Inspection

After the floor has been cleaned, inspect the floor for nicks, scratches, gaps, or planks that may have moved during installation, as well as any other imperfections that need attention. Touch up nicks and scratches with touch-up products.

Floor Protection During Construction

Always protect the surface of the installed flooring during construction by laying a quality rosin paper, or other paper that will allow the floor to breathe, over the floor and taping it to the baseboards. Never use plastic or polyethylene sheeting to cover the floor since they will trap moisture that will damage the flooring.


INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR EXOTIC LOFT COLLECTION

Important / Read First

Please read and review installation instructions completely before proceeding with the actual installation.

Hardwood flooring is a beautiful and unique product of nature which is characterized by distinctive variations in grain and color. These natural variations in color and grain are not flaws, but are part of the natural beauty and uniqueness of hardwood flooring. (These inherent variations should be expected and serve to enhance the natural beauty and enduring charm.) Your hardwood floors are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards which permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5%. The defects may be of a manufacturing or natural type.

• The installer assumes all responsibility for final inspection of product quality.
• This inspection of all flooring should be done before installation.
• Carefully examine the flooring for color, finish and quality before installation.
• Use reasonable selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces with glaring defects, whatever the cause.
• If material is not acceptable contact your hardwood flooring dealer prior to installation.
• Before the installation of any hardwood flooring product, the installer must determine that the environment of the job site and the condition and type of subfloor involved is acceptable; ensuring that it meets or exceeds all the requirements stipulated in the installation instructions that follow.
• The manufacturer declines responsibility for job failure resulting form inappropriate or improperly prepared subfloors, job site environmental deficiencies or improper care & maintenance.
• The use of stain, filler or putty for the correction of defects during installation should be accepted as normal procedure.
• When your hardwood flooring is ordered, a 5-10% waste factor, depending on layout, must be added to the actual square footage amount needed. (Diagonal installations may require more.)

• In new construction, hardwood flooring is to be the last product installed.
• All work involving water or moisture (plumbing, acoustical ceilings, drywall taping, etc.) must be completed prior to wood flooring being installed.
• The flooring can not be delivered until the building has been closed in and cement work, plastering, painting and other materials are completely dry. Concrete and plaster should be cured at least 60 to 90 days.
• Check basements and under floor crawl spaces to be sure they are dry and well ventilated to avoid damage caused by moisture.
• Flooring should be at the job site 24 hours prior to installation. Cartons should be placed in the installation area. DO NOT open until ready to install.
• The installation site should have consistent room temperature of 60° - 75° F and a constant relative humidity level of 35 – 55% for a minimum of 5 days prior to installation of any hardwood flooring product.

Note: The relative humidity of any room can be checked with a hygrometer.
Note on bowing: The boards may be slightly concave or convex when removed from the carton. Once they are properly installed they will lay flat.

*Lightly Sand terrazzo, tile and sheet vinyl before glue down installation to insure a good bond. Do not install over perimeter glued vinyl floors
**Do not sand or abrade vinyl asbestos tile.

FLOAT-IN INSTALLATION GUIDE

Once the subfloor is dry, clean and flat, install the foam/rubber underlayment as specified by the underlayment manufacturer. Tape all seams completely as specified by underlayment manufacturer.

Begin installing the first row in the right corner of the base wall. Install the first board so the short grooved side is against the ½” expansion shims to your right and the long grooved length of the board is against the ½” expansion shims in front of you.

Apply tongue & groove glue to the end of the second board. Connect the end of the second board to the end of the first board, making sure the boards are tightly connected and firmly positioned against the shims. Use the hammer/rubber mallet and tapping block to tap the tongue end of the second board to ensure a tight fit. Never use the hammer or rubber mallet directly on the flooring as this will cause damage to the board.

Continue placing additional boards moving right to left using the same procedure until the first row is complete. You will need to cut off the end of the final board, save the remaining piece for the next row as long as it is at least 12” long. Use the last board Puller to ensure the last board is tight against the preceding board. Place shims between the end of the last board and the wall. Use the shims to wedge the row in tight rendering it immobile.

Start each new row on the right side with the remaining portion of the previous row as long as it is at least 12” long, otherwise cut a new starter board

The end joint must be at least 16” from the end joint in the row before it. When maintaining the 16” offset of all end joints, the pattern should not repeat itself until the 4th or 5th row. Maintaining this offset is very important where rows are short, such as across the width of a narrow hallway.

Glue the short end and long side grooves and position the next board, match the tongue and groove at the end only, then, beginning at the opposite end of the board, tap the board onto the previous row with the tapping block. Move the tapping block back toward the right side of the board until you get near the connections with the previous board. Before you finish tapping the board onto the previous row, you must be sure the end joint is tight. If the end joint is not completely tight you will not be able to do so once the long seam is tight.

Continue with additional boards, cut the last board to fit and use the last board puller and tap block to install it as shown previously. Continue with the next row, as long as the piece remaining from the previous row is at least 12” and maintains the end joint offset from the previous row of at least 16”.

The entire length of the last row in most cases will need to be cut to fit into the remaining space while allowing the ½” expansion space.

The last board puller will be used to install the last row.

Flooring may run continuously between rooms as long as the doorway/passageway is no less than 42” in width. If the doorway/passageway is less than 42” in width, a t-molding must be placed in the doorway/passageway to separate the two floors.

Each case is unique, the general rule is to carefully measure before you cut and remember to leave the ½” expansion space. Expansion space will be covered with pipe rings or molding when the installation is completed.

Complete the installation by allowing the tongue & groove adhesive to dry as specified on the bottle, remove the expansion shims and install floor vents, transition molding and wall molding as needed. See your dealer/distributor for available products.

Follow the floor care guide and warranty information for proper care, protection and maintenance of your hardwood floor.

Staple-Down INSTALLATION GUIDE

Once the subfloor is dry, clean and flat, install the red rosin paper or 15 lb. asphalt saturated felt (roofing felt). Tape all seams completely with underlayment seam tape.

Begin installing the first row in the right corner of the base wall. Install the first board so the short grooved side is against the ½” expansion shims to your right and the long grooved length of the board is against the ½” expansion shims in front of you.

Apply tongue & groove glue to the end of the second board. Connect the end of the second board to the end of the first board, making sure the boards are tightly connected and firmly positioned against the shims. Use the hammer/rubber mallet and tapping block to tap the tongue end of the second board to ensure a tight fit. Never use the hammer or rubber mallet directly on the flooring as this will cause damage to the board.

Continue placing additional boards moving right to left using the same procedure until the first row is complete.

You will need to cut off the end of the final board, save the remaining piece for the next row as long as it is at least 12” long. Use the last board Puller to ensure the last board is tight against the preceding board.

Place shims between the end of the last board and the wall. Use the shims to wedge the row in tight rendering it immobile.

Carefully top nail the first row of boards to the subfloor ONLY using 6d finish nails where the boards meet the wall (This will be on three sides of the first and last rows of the installation and on the two ends for all other rows). Place the nails as close to the edge of the boards as possible so they will be covered by the transition and/or wall molding. If this can not be done, set the nails with a nail punch and fill holes with wood filler. Finish nails should be placed at 8” intervals along the wall.

Now side nail with the flooring stapler through the tongues of the first row at 8” intervals and 2-3” from the end of each board.

Start each new row on the right side with the remaining portion of the previous row as long as it is at least 12” long, otherwise cut a new starter board

The end joint must be at least 16” from the end joint in the row before it. When maintaining the 16” offset of all end joints, the pattern should not repeat itself until the 4th or 5th row.

Glue the short end groove of the next board and place in position, match the tongue and groove at the end only, then, beginning at the opposite end of the board, tap the board onto the previous row with the tapping block. Move the tapping block back toward the right side of the board until you get near the connections with the previous board. Before you finish tapping the board onto the previous row, you must be sure the end joint is tight. If the end joint is not completely tight you will not be able to do so once the long seam is tight.

Continue with additional boards, cut the last board to fit and use the last board puller and tap block to install it as shown previously. Continue with the next row, as long as the piece remaining from the previous row is at least 12” and maintains the end joint offset from the previous row of at least 16”.

Now side nail with the flooring stapler through the tongues of the boards at 8” intervals and 2-3” from the end of each board.

The entire length of the last row in most cases will need to be cut to fit into the remaining space while allowing the ½” expansion space.

The last board puller will be used to install the last row.

Top nail the last row with finish nails against the wall as was done with the first row.

Flooring may run continuously between rooms, or, a t-molding may be placed in the doorway/passageway to separate the two floors.

Each case is unique, the general rule is to carefully measure before you cut and remember to leave the ½” expansion space. Expansion space will be covered with pipe rings or molding when the installation is completed.

Complete the installation by allowing the tongue & groove adhesive to dry as specified on the bottle, remove the expansion shims and install floor vents, transition molding and wall molding as needed. See your dealer/distributor for available products.

Follow the floor care guide and warranty information for proper care, protection and maintenance of your hardwood floor.

GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDE

Once the subfloor is dry, clean and flat you may proceed with the installation.

Begin installing the first row in the right corner of the base wall. Install the first board so the short grooved side is against the ½” expansion shims to your right and the long grooved length of the board is against the ½” expansion shims in front of you. Always dry fit the first row before you begin gluing the boards down.

Once the first row has been cut and fit, remove the flooring and set it aside. Snap a chalk line ½” out from the starting wall, starting from the edge of the chalk line, apply an even layer of adhesive as instructed by the adhesive manufacturer. Only spread adhesive the width and length of the one row that was dry fit.

A NOTE ON ADHESIVE:

Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions for use in this application. Wear rubber gloves and proceed carefully during adhesive application. Cured mastic is very hard to remove from the flooring as well as the tools. DO NOT allow any spilled or excess adhesive to remain anywhere but between the boards and the subfloor at any time during the installation. Clean up spills immediately as recommended by the adhesive manufacturer. The flooring manufacturer will not be responsible in any way for adhesive that is not removed from the hardwood flooring immediately. Any damage to the flooring caused by the adhesive allowing to cure on the surface will be the sole responsibility of the installation mechanic.

Re-install the pre-cut boards from the dry fit as follows. Apply tongue & groove glue to the end of the second board. Connect the end of the second board to the end of the first board, making sure the boards are tightly connected and firmly positioned against the shims. Use the hammer/rubber mallet and tapping block to tap the tongue end of the second board to ensure a tight fit. Never use the hammer or rubber mallet directly on the flooring as this will cause damage to the board.

Continue placing additional boards moving right to left using the same procedure until the first row is complete.

You will need to cut off the end of the final board, save the remaining piece for the next row as long as it is at least 12” long. Use the last board Puller to ensure the last board is tight against the preceding board.

Place shims between the end of the last board and the wall. Use the shims to wedge the row in tight rendering it immobile. For best results, allow the adhesive on the subfloor and the tongue & groove glue to dry before continuing with the rest of the installation.

Start each new row on the right side with the remaining portion of the previous row as long as it is at least 12” long, otherwise cut a new starter board

The end joint must be at least 16” from the end joint in the row before it. When maintaining the 16” offset of all end joints, the pattern should not repeat itself until the 4^th or 5^th row.

Trowel adhesive onto the subfloor as recommended by the adhesive manufacturer, Glue the short end groove of the next board and place in position, match the tongue and groove at the end only, then, beginning at the opposite end of the board, tap the board onto the previous row with the tapping block.

Move the tapping block back toward the right side of the board until you get near the connections with the previous board. Before you finish tapping the board onto the previous row, you must be sure the end joint is tight. If the end joint is not completely tight you will not be able to do so once the long seam is tight.

Continue with additional boards, cut the last board to fit and use the last board puller and tap block to install it as shown previously. Continue with the next row, as long as the piece remaining from the previous row is at least 12” and maintains the end joint offset from the previous row of at least 16”.

The entire length of the last row in most cases will need to be cut to fit into the remaining space while allowing the ½” expansion space.

The last board puller will be used to install the last row.

Top nail the last row with finish nails against the wall as was done with the first row.

Flooring may run continuously between rooms, or, a t-molding may be placed in the doorway/passageway to separate the two floors.

Each case is unique, the general rule is to carefully measure before you cut and remember to leave the ½” expansion space. Expansion space will be covered with pipe rings or molding when the installation is completed.

Complete the installation by allowing the tongue & groove adhesive to dry as specified on the bottle, remove the expansion shims and install floor vents, transition molding and wall molding as needed. See your dealer/distributor for available products.

Follow the floor care guide and warranty information for proper care, protection and maintenance of your hardwood floor.