Wilsonart Installation
Click here to view the Wilsonart "Tiles" Glueless Installation Instructions
Click here to view the Wilsonart Installation with Glue
Click here to view the Wilsonart Red Label Woods Glueless Installation
Laminate Trim Installation
IMPORTANT!
- Wilsonart Classic™, Wilsonart Estate Plus, and Wilsonart DuoLink™ Flooring products are installed as floating floors. This means the flooring is not glued or nailed to the subfloor. Never nail Wilsonart Flooring to the subfloor.
- A minimum clearance of 1/4" (7mm) must be left at walls, pipes, doorways, ducts and other fixed vertical objects (such as a kitchen island) to allow the floating floor to expand and contract freely with environmental changes.
- T-Expansions are required in doorways (bathrooms and bedrooms) when total area is more than 1,040 square feet.
- If door jambs are undercut, the use of expansion strips in doorways becomes optional in installations under 1,040 square feet.
- DO NOT INSTALL WILSONART FLOORING OVER ANY EXISTING CARPETING.
- Do not install Wilsonart Flooring in wet rooms such as saunas and shower stalls.
- Do not install Wilsonart Flooring in rooms with floor drains.
- Failure to use the recommended padding systems when installing Wilsonart Flooring will void the product warranty.
- Plank end joints must be staggered by a minimum of 10" - 12" (254mm - 300mm). FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THIS INSTALLATION INFORMATION WILL VOID THE PRODUCT WARRANTY.
Important Safety Information
- You must have adequate ventilation when cutting any Wilsonart Flooring product. If you are cutting the product indoors, equip the saw with a dust collectoin system and take care to contain the dust in the work area by installing plastic barriers in room openings. Avoid breathing dust generated from cutting wood products.
- Follow safety instructions of the Material Safety Data Sheets.
Due to the hygroscopic typical properties of a laminate floor (containing more than 90% wood fiber) the environment should display the following conditions before, during and after installation.
- Floor surface temperature minimum 60°F (16°C)
- Air Temperature 70°F - 75°F (21°C - 24°C)
- Relative Humidity 25% - 50%
Temperatures may vary but the above are the ideal conditions. Wilsonart Flooring products perform best when the above climate conditions are maintained. If the flooring product undergoes extreme climate variations, such as below 25% RH or above 60% RH, the product will undergo different levels of expansion and contraction. Relative humidity can be controlled if necessary by using a variety of climate controlling devices, i.e. humidifier.
Acclimation
Under normal climate conditions 70° - 75�F (21� - 24�C) and 25% - 60% RH, this product does not need to be acclimated.
However, if the humidity is routinely below 25% or above 60% or there is a difference in temperature of more than 15�F
(8�C) from delivery site to installation site, Wilsonart Flooring with Tap-N-Lock Technology must be acclimated. To
acclimate this product, spread out unopened boxes in the room where they are to be installed for a minimum of 48 hours
prior to use. In very dry (below 20% RH) or very humid (above 70%) areas and/or custom installations, Wilsonart Flooring
with Tap-N-Lock Technology should be acclimated for 72�96 hours. In addition to acclimation, in locations where the
humidity is routinely less than 25% it may be necessary to reduce the expansion space by 1/16" and where the relative
humidity is routinely greater than 60% an additional 1/16" of expansion space may be necessary.
Expansion Joint Requirements
The following information is based on single-room installations. T-Expansions are required in doorways (bathrooms and
bedrooms) when total area is more than 1,040 sq. ft. (97m²). The 1040 sq. ft. rule is designed for square rooms and is layout
specific. If total area is less than 1,040 sq. ft. (97m²), transitions may not be necessary depending on specific layout. The
layout will determine if T-Expansions are necessary and where they are to be placed. DO NOT transition from a larger area
to a smaller area without addressing the use of T-Expansions. If you are unsure where to place T-Expansions, please contact
Wilsonart Technical Service at 1-800-433-3222. Wooden doorjambs must be undercut to allow for the proper 1/4" expansion.
Metal doorjambs require T-Expansions on interior doors. Metal doorjambs must not be undercut. Leave 1/4" expansion
around the doorframe and fill with a Wilsonart color matched 100% silicone sealant.
Please note: Area Table assumes a square room (i.e., length = width). For long, narrow areas, use the longest dimension and the
Length Based Table to determine expansion gaps.
Suggested Expansion Gap:
| Room Length | Suggested Expansion Gap |
| 10-30 ft. (3-9m) | 1/4" (8mm) |
| 35-40 ft. (10.6-12m) | 3/5" (10mm) |
| 45-50 ft. (13.7-15.2m) | 1/2" (13mm) |
| 55-65 ft. (16.8-19.8m) | 3/4" (19mm) |
| 70-80 ft. (21.3-24.3m) | 7/8" (22mm) |
| 95-100 ft. (29-30.5m) | 1" (25mm) |
| Square Footage | Suggested Expansion Gap |
| 100-1000 ft. (9-93m²) | 1/4" (8mm) |
| 1100-1800 ft. (102-167m²) | 3/8" (10mm) |
| 1900-2600 ft. (177-242m²) | 1/2" (13mm) |
| 2700-3000 ft. (251-279m²) | 5/8" (16mm) |
Using the above information you MUST consider correct acclimation times. Remember the longer you acclimate the
product, the better for larger installs. Perimeter expansion is also very important. The AREA is layout specific. DO NOT
transition from a large area to a smaller area without addressing the use of T-Expansions. If in doubt contact your Wilsonart
Installation Manager.
In locations where the humidity is routinely greater then 60% an additional 1 /16 " of expansion space may be necessary. In
locations where the humidity is routinely less then 25%, it may be necessary to reduce the expansion space by 1 /16". If in
doubt, contact your regional Wilsonart Installation Manager.
*Assumes the flooring has acclimated to the interior environment which has been controlled within the typical limits.
** (i.e., � 15�F and � 15% RH) specified by the Architectural Woodwork Quality Standards for Interior Woodwork**.
** Architectural Woodwork Quality Standards, version 1.0, 7th edition, Architectural Woodwork Institute, 1997.
Subfloor Preparation
Wilsonart Tap-N-Lock Technology Flooring is a floating floor system and can be installed over most
existing floors (e.g. sheet vinyl, vinyl tile, ceramic tile, concrete, cement). Always use the
recommended Wilsonart padding.
Wooden subfloors must be structurally sound, clean, dry and flat to within a tolerance of 3 /16 " (5mm) over a 10' (305cm) span and must have good ventilation underneath them. Wood floors that are over a concrete or cement subfloor MUST be removed before installation of Wilsonart Flooring products. Uneven floors should be sanded or filled with a Portland cement based product to achieve a level surface. Floor leveling compound must be allowed to dry completely as per manufacturer�s instructions. Loose areas or squeaks in the floors must be repaired prior to installation. Only Wilsonart 2-N-1 Pad, Wilsonart Acoustic Cushion, or Wilsonart Commercial Cushion should be used.
Concrete subfloors must be structurally sound, clean, dry and flat to within a tolerance of 3 /16" (5mm) over a 10' (305cm) span. Concrete floors must be cured properly and allowed to dry for at least 60 days after curing process. Install Wilsonart Polyethylene 8mil Film first as a vapor barrier when installing over any bare concrete or cement based floor, (i.e. ceramic tile, terrazzo, etc.) making sure seams overlap a minimum of 16" (tape the entire overlap seam together with polyethylene or foil tape) Wilsonart Acoustic Cushion is then laid over the polyethylene film, or, you may use Wilsonart 2-N-1 Padding or Wilsonart Commercial Cushion in one easy step. Make sure you lay the vapor layer that is attached to Wilsonart 2-N-1 Padding or Wilsonart Commercial Cushion directly over the cement/concrete subfloor. Note: Wood subfloors/wood floors over concrete must be removed.Any concrete or cement based floors or subfloors (including ceramic and terrazzo tile) should be tested for moisture vapor emissions. THE MAXIMUM ALLOWABLE MOISTURE EMISSION RATE FOR INSTALLING WILSONART FLOORING IS 5 POUNDS PER 1000 SQUARE FEET PER 24 HOURS. THE GUIDELINES FOR TESTING SHOULD FOLLOW THE ASTM F 1869 TEST METHOD. THIS METHOD COVERS THE APPARATUS, CONDITIONING, AND MEASURING PROCEDURES.
Ceramic or Terrazo tile subfloors should be tested for moisture vapor emissions as stated above. Ceramic/Terrazo tile floors that are in good condition and flat to within a tolerance of 3 /16" (5mm) over a 10' (305cm) span need not be removed prior to installation. Grout lines more than 1 /8 " deep should be filled using an appropriate leveling compound. Floor leveling compound must be allowed to dry completely and used as per the manufacturer's instructions. If the tile is adhered to a concrete subfloor, a vapor barrier must be placed directly over the tile subfloor. The Wilsonart 2-N-1 Padding, Wilsonart Commercial Cushion, or Wilsonart Acoustic Cushion are approved underlayments. When using the Wilsonart Acoustic Cushion, install Wilsonart 8mil Polyethylene Film first as a vapor barrier making sure seams overlap a minimum of 16" (tape the overlap seam together with polyethylene or foil tape).
Vinyl and linoleum floors must be structurally sound, clean, dry, flat to within a tolerance of 3 /16 " (5mm) over a 10' (305cm) span and fully adhered. Perimeter glued or loose laid vinyl flooring should be removed. Vinyl floors over concrete should not be treated as a vapor barrier. Install Wilsonart Polyethylene 8mil Film first as a vapor barrier, making sure seams overlap a minimum of 16" (tape the entire overlap seam together with polyethylene or foil tape). Wilsonart Acoustic Cushion is then laid over the polyethylene film, or, you may use Wilsonart 2-N-1 Padding or Wilsonart Commercial Cushion in one easy step.
Carpet must be completely removed before installation of the laminate floor begins and follow directions for the appropriate subfloor.
Radiant Heat: Wilsonart Flooring may be installed over most types of radiant heat systems. Follow the
heating system manufacturer's installation instructions, concrete floors must be cured properly and
allowed to dry for at least 60 days after the curing. The heating system must be in operation for at least
two weeks before installing Wilsonart Flooring. Three days prior to installation, the system must be
turned off or set to about 65�F (18�C). Use Wilsonart 2-N-1 Padding, Wilsonart Commercial Cushion,
or Wilsonart Acoustic Cushion with Wilsonart 8mil Polyethylene Film as underlayment. Two days after
installation, the floor heating system can be turned on for normal use. The temperature may be raised
gradually over a one week period to the desired operating temperature. NOTE: Surface temperature
should never exceed 85�F or 29�C.
Do not install over electric roll out type radiant heat pads.
Note: (1) The subfloors described above are the only subfloors for which this product can be used. (2) If there are any questions pertaining to the appropriateness or preparation of a specific subfloor, please contact a Wilsonart Flooring Dealer before proceeding. (3) Floor leveling compound must be dried according to the manufacturer's recommendation before installation of Wilsonart Flooring.
General Installation Procedures Undercutting Door Frames: When undercutting doorframes, use a loose piece of flooring and a piece of the selected Wilsonart Padding System as a depth gauge for sawing. Doorframes may be undercut using a handsaw or power jamb saw (A). When installing the flooring at the doorframe, allow for the proper 1 /4 " expansion clearance. For metal frames and fire door frames, the flooring panels should be cut to fit around the frames. Leave a 1/4" (6.5mm) expansion space and fill it with color-matched Wilsonart perimeter sealant. Transitions should be left in interior door applications where metal doorframes are used.
Cutting Pipe Holes: Measure to determine the location of the pipe hole. Drill a hole in the flooring 5 /8 " (15mm) larger than the pipe diameter to allow for movement. For tiles and for pipes on the short side of planks, saw straight through the center of the hole (B). For pipes located on the long side of a plank or very close to the edge of the tile, saw in toward the hole at 45� angle (C). Dado grooving and the use of loose tongues may assist in alignment. Apply liberal amounts of adhesive to the cut piece of flooring and press into position using the pull bar. Make sure to achieve 100% squeeze out. (B & C) Note: Be sure to seal the cut exposed flooring edges around the pipe with Wilsonart� Flooring Adhesive and 100% silicone sealant.
Tool Requirements
In addition to the appropriate Wilsonart Tap-N-Lock Technology Flooring materials and accessories, the following tools will help to ensure a successful installation:
For your convenience, Wilsonart Flooring now offers an installation tool kit. Ask your distributor for details. *Available from your Wilsonart Distributor.
Laying the Wilsonart Underlayment Padding
The appropriate Wilsonart Underlayment Padding System should be used in floating floor
installations over a hard surface (see Subfloor Preparation for details). Make sure you have an
appropriate 8mil vapor barrier when installing over any bare concrete or cement based floor.
Starting in the corner of the room where the first row of flooring is to be laid, unroll the first
row of padding and butt to wall. Padding should be unrolled one row at a time throughout the
installation. The edges should butt together, but not overlap. Tape the seams between each row
of padding with 2" polyethylene or foil tape. Wilsonart 2-N-1 Padding, Wilsonart Commercial
Cushion, or Wilsonart Acoustic Cushion are approved underlayments. (D)
Uneven Walls: Installation will ideally start in a corner and proceed from right to left except for
DuoLink and Red Label Strip Format Woods, which is laid from left to right. Before laying
out the flooring, check the wall for straightness. In the presence of uneven walls (or in the
absence of a wall), a straight edge can be nailed down on wood floors or the use of double
face tape for concrete floors (A). Adjustments for uneven walls can also be made by using
spacers between the wall and the flooring as it is installed (B).
Gluing Procedures: The Wilsonart Tap-N-Lock Technology Flooring installation system is a glueless system. Glue is only required to seal the edges of material that has been cut and to seal the seams in wet area installations such as bathrooms. Coat the edges of all cut material with Wilsonart Flooring Adhesive "WFA".
Installation Process - Glueless
- Wilsonart DuoLink Tap-N-Lock Technology Flooring is installed from Left to Right. (C)
- Wilsonart Classic, Wilsonart Estate Plus, and Red Label Wood (Large Format) Tap-NLock Technology Flooring is installed from Right to Left. (D)
Planks:
Planks should be installed parallel with incoming light from the windows (the long joints
should run into the light source from a window), or parallel to the long direction of the
room. (E1 & E2) After determining the best orientation of the flooring and the starting wall,
measure the width of the room (in inches or centimeters). Divide by 7.56" (192mm) for
DuoLink or divide by 7.70" (196mm) for Classic, Estate Plus, and Red Label Woods (Large
Format) to determine the number of rows of planks and the width of the last row. If the last
row is determined to be less than 2" (5.1cm) wide, it should be adjusted by cutting the first
row of planks lengthwise.
Note: Most plank layouts require a material overage of at least 5% of total square footage to be
installed. This may vary depending on layout.
Laying the First Row of Flooring
Note: If flooring is cut indoors, equip saw with dust collection system. Take care to contain the dust
in the work area, by installing plastic barriers, in room openings. Avoid breathing dust generated
from cutting wood products by using appropriate respiratory protection.
Check Wilsonart Tap-N-Lock Technology Flooring planks for visible damage before and during installation. Flooring planks found with visible damage should NOT be installed.
Planks:
(a) Before installing the first row of planks, the projecting groove profiles that are facing the
wall should be carefully removed. (F) Wilsonart DuoLink Planks with Tap-N-Lock
Technology are laid from left to right. Wilsonart Classic, Wilsonart Estate Plus, and
Wilsonart Red Label Large Format Wood Planks with Tap-N-Lock Technology are laid from
right to left. Use 1 /4 " spacers between the plank and the walls to ensure that there is
enough room for expansion. Start the first row with a full length plank with the removed
groove profiles facing into the corner. Place a set of spacers between the wall and the short
sides of the plank to maintain the required clearance.
(b) After the first plank in the first row is installed, install the next plank in the first row by
laying it flat on the floor. The plank should be positioned with a short tongue side facing left
and the removed long groove profile facing the wall (again using a spacer between the plank
edge and the wall) and its short groove edge is close to the short tongue edge of the first
plank. Keeping the second plank flat on the floor, use a hammer and Wilsonart's tapping
block to GENTLY tap the tongue on the short edge of the second plank into engagement
until the gap is completely closed. (G)
(c) Repeat step (b) until all the planks have been installed in the first row. The last plank inthe first row must be cut to the correct length. Install the last plank by laying it flat on the floor and pulling its short edge into engagement until the gap is completely closed. (A)
Laying the Remaining Rows
Planks:
Plank end joints must be staggered by a minimum of 10" � 12" (254mm � 300mm) apart.
Prepare the planks that will be used to start the second, third and fourth rows of flooring:
cut one plank to a length of 3' (914mm) by cutting off the groove end; cut one plank to a
length of 2' (610mm) by cutting off the groove end, and cut one plank to a length of 1'
(305mm) by cutting off the groove end. Remember, paint or butter all cut exposed edges
with WFA.
(a) Place the first plank (3' long) in the second row flat on the floor as close as possible to
the first row. (B) Use the Wilsonart tapping block and hammer to GENTLY tap the long
edge of the first plank in the second row into engagement with the long edges of the planks
in the first row.
(b) Install the second plank in the second row by laying it flat on the floor with its grooved
sides as close as possible to the planks already installed. Keeping the plank flat on the floor,
use the Wilsonart tapping block and hammer to GENTLY tap the short and long edge to
engage, completely closing the seams. We recommend that you connect the short edge first
and then the long edge from left to right. (C) The last plank in the row must be cut to the
correct length. Install the last plank by laying it flat on the floor and pulling its short edge
into engagement until the gap is completely closed.
(c) Repeat steps (a) & (b) for the third row. This plank will be approximately 24" long. Use
a pull bar to connect the long edges of the planks in the last row.
(d) Repeat step (a) & (b) for the fourth row. This plank will be approximately 12" long. Use
a pull bar to connect the long edges of the planks in the last row.
This is known as the 4-3-2-1 stair step. In the subsequent following rows, you must have this
offset. (D1-Classic, Estate Plus, & Red Label Large Format), (D2-Duolink)
Installation Process � Glueless
Determining Room Layout
When installing a full room of tile, measure the width and length of the room (in inches or
centimeters) and divide by 15.45" (392mm) to determine the number of rows of tiles and
the width of the last row. If the width of the last row is determined to be less than 3"
(76mm) wide, it should be adjusted by cutting the first row of tiles lengthwise. For
checkerboard patterns always adjust by cutting width and length if measurement falls less
than full tile.
Tiles:
Alignment is important. If Wilsonart Tap-N-Lock Technology Flooring tiles are laid corner
to corner as in standard Vinyl Composition Tiles (VCT) installations, make sure the tiles
are precisely aligned. (A) If Wilsonart Flooring tiles are laid corner to corner, care must be
taken to avoid misalignment when tapping together. When Wilsonart Flooring tiles are
installed corner to corner the first full row of tiles must be glued together using the
Wilsonart Flooring Adhesive "WFA" and allowed to cure for one hour. This will help
minimize misalignment of tiles. Misaligned tiles could cause chipping on the corners of
tiles. Wilsonart Flooring tiles may also be installed in a staggered manner. (B)
Note: Most tile layouts require a material overage of at least 7%-10% of the total square footage to
be installed. This may vary depending on layout. Tiles may be installed corner to corner or with the
joints offset if the pattern allows.
Laying the First Row of Flooring
NOTE: If flooring is cut indoors, equip saw with dust collection system. Take care to contain the
dust in the work area, by installing plastic barriers, in room openings. Avoid breathing dust
generated from cutting wood products by using appropriate respiratory protection.
Check Wilsonart Tap-N-Lock Technology Flooring tiles for visible damage before and during installation. Flooring tiles found with visible damage should NOT be installed.
Tiles:
Specific installation instructions for corner to corner tile installation: For a corner to
corner installation with Wilsonart Tap-N-Lock tiles you must glue together the first full row
of tiles using WFA (see Installation Process With Glue Section). It is important that these
tiles are properly aligned. This row should be allowed to dry for at least one hour before
proceeding with the rest of the installation. If the first row is not a full tile (see determining
room layout section), install them to the first full row that was glued together after the
adhesive has cured (minimum one hour). Then place spacers (1 /4") between wall and field.
These installation steps will help minimize the possibility of chipped corners. However, care
still must be taken to prevent chipping corners or damage to the tiles. When starting
remaining rows, it is important to make sure spacers are securely positioned to prevent
shifting of tiles in these rows. Read and follow instructions below for additional installation
instructions for corner to corner or staggered tile installations.
(a) Before installing the first row of tiles, the projecting groove profiles that are facing the
wall should be carefully removed. (C) Tiles can be laid from right to left or left to right. Use
1 /4" spacers between the tile and the walls to ensure that there is enough room for
expansion. Position the first tile with the removed groove profiles facing into the corner.
(b) After the first tile in the first row is installed, install the next tile in the first row by
laying it flat on the floor. The tile should be positioned with a tongue side facing left and
the removed groove profile side facing the wall (again using a spacer between the tile edge
and the wall) and its groove edge is close to the tongue edge of the first tile. Align for
straightness and keeping the second tile flat on the floor, use a hammer and Wilsonart
tapping block to GENTLY tap the tongue of the second tile into engagement until the gap is
completely closed. (D)
(c) Repeat step (b) until all the tiles have been installed in the first row. The last tile in the
first row must be cut to the correct length. Install the last tile by laying it flat on the floor
and pulling it into engagement until the gap is completely closed. (E)
Note: If the wall is crooked, trace the contour of the wall on the first row of tiles and cut as
necessary. Remember, paint or butter all cut exposed edges with WFA.
Laying the Remaining Rows
Tiles:
Alignment is important. If Wilsonart Flooring tiles are laid corner to corner care must be
taken to avoid misalignment when tapping together. Misaligned tiles could cause chipping
on the corner of the tiles. Wilsonart Flooring tiles may also be installed in a staggered
manner.
Start second row of tiles by removing the groove profile that is installed against the wall.
Align first tile in second row with starter tile in first row. Align for straightness and use a
hammer and Wilsonart tapping block to GENTLY tap the tongue of the tile in the second
row into engagement with first row tile until the gap is completely closed. Install the
second tile in the second row by laying it flat on the floor with its grooved sides as close as
possible to the tiles already installed. Keeping the tile flat on the floor, use the tapping block
and hammer to GENTLY tap the tongue of the tile into engagement with the tiles already
installed. Remember, care must be taken to avoid misalignment when tapping together.
Continue laying the tiles in the second row in this manner. The last tile in the second row
must be cut to the correct length. Install the last tile by laying it flat on the floor and
pulling it into engagement until the gap is completely closed. Repeat these steps for
remaining rows.
Note: Remember, paint or butter all exposed edges with Wilsonart Flooring Adhesive.
Installation Process � WITH GLUE:
Planks and Tiles:
To install Wilsonart Flooring in full bathrooms sealing the profile edges is required using
Wilsonart Flooring Adhesive "WFA". WFA should be applied at the top of the extended
groove profile on both the (long and short) groove profiles. (A) Apply sufficient glue to
completely seal the edges against penetration of moisture on all sides. Adhesive "squeeze
out" should be visible along the entire length of the seams as soon as plank/tiles are
connected. Wipe off any excess glue afterwards with a plastic spatula. Next, dampen a clean
soft cloth in a mixture of one-gallon warm water and one ounce Wilsonart Flooring Cleaner
and wipe remaining haze from the surface. Use a dry towel to remove any residue left by the
dampened cloth. Remember all exposed product edges of Wilsonart Flooring should also be
sealed with WFA. The 1 /4 " perimeter expansion gap should be completely sealed with a
100% mildew-resistant silicone type sealant (B). Remember WFA must be fully cleaned
from the floor within one hour of application. Adhesive residue, which is left on the floor
for longer periods, will be very difficult to remove. To prevent skin contact with glue and
silicone sealant, the use of disposable rubber gloves is recommended. Follow safety
instructions on the Material Safety Data Sheets.
In applications where higher moisture content is likely, such as areas with appliances that use water, sealing the profile edges is recommended using WFA. When installing the flooring in areas where water may be present, such as a, laundry room, kitchen sink, and ice maker, we recommend to completely fill the 1/4 " clearance space with 100% silicone sealant in these areas, for additional protection. These steps should be completed prior to installing trim. (B)
In health care applications WFA must be used to seal profile edges. Each 16-ounce (47cl) bottle of Wilsonart Flooring Adhesive will cover approximately 150 sq ft. (18m2) of flooring.
Installation Process � Glueless
Determining Room Layout
- Wilsonart Red Label Woods (Strip Format) with Tap-N-Lock Technology Flooring is installed from Left to Right. (A)
- Wilsonart Red Label Woods (Strip Format) cannot be installed in bathrooms.
Planks:
Red Label Strip Format Planks should be installed parallel with incoming light from the
windows, or parallel to the long direction of the room. After determining the best
orientation of the flooring and the starting wall, measure the width of the room (in inches
or centimeters) and divide by 3.54" (9cm) to determine the number of rows of planks and
the width of the last row. If the last row is determined to be less than 1 1/2" (4.0cm) wide,
it should be adjusted by cutting the first row of planks lengthwise.
Note: Most plank layouts require a material overage of at least 5% of total square footage to be
installed. This may vary depending on layout.
Laying the First Row of Flooring
NOTE: If Flooring is cut indoors, equip saw with dust collection system. Take care to contain the
dust in the work area, by installing barriers, in room openings. Avoid breathing dust generated from
cutting wood products by using appropriate respiratory protection.
Check Wilsonart Tap-N-Lock Technology Flooring Planks for visible damage before and during installation. Flooring planks found with visible damage should NOT be installed.
(a) Planks are laid from left to right with the groove sides facing the wall. Use 1/4" (6.5mm) spacers between the plank and the walls to ensure that there is enough room for expansion. Start the first row with a full-length plank. Place a set of spacers between the walls on both the long and short sides of the plank to maintain the required clearance. The short-end joints of all Red Label Strip Format Wood planks must be staggered at least 11" (280 mm) apart.
(b) After the first plank in the first row is installed, install the next plank in the first row by laying it flat on the floor so its long groove profile is facing the wall (again using a spacer between the edge and the wall) and its short edge is close to the short edge of the first plank. Keeping the second plank flat on the floor, use a hammer and Wilsonart�s tapping block to gently tap the short edge of second plank into engagement until the gap is completely closed.
(c) Repeat step (b) until all the planks have been installed in the first row. The last plank in the first row must be cut to the correct length to complete the row. Install the last plank by laying it flat on the floor and pulling its short edge into engagement until the gap is completely closed.
Note � if the wall is crooked, trace the contour of the wall on the first row of planks and trim as necessary.
Laying The Remaining Rows
(d) Place the first plank (22" long) in the second row flat on the floor as close as possible to
the first row. Use the Wilsonart tapping block and hammer to gently tap the long edge of
the first plank in the second row into engagement with the long edges of the planks in the
first row.
(e) Install the second plank of the second row by laying it flat on the floor with its grooved sides as close as possible to the planks already installed. Keeping the plank flat on the floor, use the Wilsonart tapping block and hammer to gently tap the short edge first, then the long edge to engage, completely closing the seams. We recommend that you connect the short edge first and then the long edge from right to left. The last plank in the row must be cut to the correct length to complete the row. Install the last plank by laying it flat on the floor and pulling its short edge into engagement until the gap is completely closed.
(f) Repeat step (d) and (e) for the third row until all of the planks have been installed. This plank will be approximately 11" long. The last plank in the row must be cut to the correct length to complete the row. Install the last plank by laying it flat on the floor and pulling its short edge into engagement until the gap is completely closed.
(h) This is known as the 3-2-1 stair step stagger. In the subsequent following rows, you must have this offset until all flooring is installed.
Installing Laminate Trim
Trim Profiles:
Wilsonart Flooring offers eight laminate wrapped trim profiles, including:
1) Base Board - for adding a custom finish along any wall.
2) Quarter-Round - for covering the 1/4" (7mm) clearance left at walls and other fixed
vertical surfaces.
3) Acoustic Molding - used as a transition strip in conjunction with Wilsonart Acoustic
Cushion.
4) T-Expansion - for joining two areas of laminate flooring together at doorways or
thresholds.
5) Transition Strip - for joining laminate flooring to other flooring materials of varying
heights.
6) End Cap - for finishing the space at exterior doorways where flooring ends or transition
to some carpet.
7) Overlap Step Nose � used to finish stair edges or step down rooms. This molding can
also be modified for use as a flush mount stair nosing (see step and stairway installation
instructions).
8) One Step� Stair Tread - used as a complete stair tread including stair nosing.
These trim pieces feature Wilsonart Flooring laminate on the surface and offer the same easy care and high durability as the flooring. One Step Stair Treads are 47 1/2" X 14 1/8" and all other molding lengths = 95".
Transitions
Transition Strip, End Cap, T-Expansion and Acoustic Molding Installation:
DO:
- Use a power miter saw with a carbide tip blade (triple chip or equivalent style) to cut the laminate wrapped trim. Do not hand saw this product. Disc sanders may help in removing chip outs and provide a clean miter.
- When sawing, always position the trim piece so the blade cuts down through the laminate surface.
- Always measure, cut to size and dry fit the trim profile prior to applying adhesive.
- Apply a bead of the appropriate adhesive, i.e. Wilsonart 7190 or similar, to the bottom surface of the trim profile which contacts the subfloor (A). Carefully position the trim piece in place and apply downward pressure to bond the trim in place (B). CAUTION: Avoid using an excessive amount of adhesive. This will interfere with the required expansion space or squeeze out from under the molding and require excessive cleanup.
- Wear eye protection during sawing and nailing operations.
- Use gloves to protect hands from contact with adhesives and sealants.
DO NOT:
- Nail through the laminate surface of the trim profile.
- Strike the laminate surface on the trim piece with a hammer or other object.
- Bend laminate wrapped trim to fit radius contours: this will result in delamination.
- Apply wax or paint type finishes to the laminate surface.
- Breathe dust when sawing trim.
- Over apply adhesive as this can interfere with expansion of the flooring.
Base Board & Quarter-Round
Base Board and Quarter-Round Installation:
DO:
- Base board and quarter-round trim should be affixed to the surface of the adjacent wall - not the flooring - to allow the flooring to move as necessary.
- Use a power miter saw with a carbide tip blade (triple chip or equivalent style) to cut the laminate wrapped trim. Do not handsaw this product.
- When sawing, always position the trim piece so the blade cuts down through the laminate surface.
- For best results, use a pneumatic nail gun with the air pressure regulated between 60 to 80 pounds per square inch.
- Always place nails in the flattest available surface on the molding face - not on a radius edge.
- Glue all inside and outside miters to prevent splitting and warping of the mitered seams.
- Fill all nail holes in the laminate surface with an appropriate colored putty.
- If the trim is to be nailed manually, pre-drill all holes to avoid splitting the laminate surface.
- Wear eye protection during all sawing and nailing operations.
- Use gloves to protect hands from contact with adhesives and sealants.
- Use a dust mask when sawing flooring.
DO NOT:
- Nail trim pieces to the flooring.
- Nail trim pieces on an angle.
- Position nails closer than 1" (25mm) from the end of trim profile.
- Position nails in the inside radius areas of the trim surface.
- Strike the laminate surface on the trim piece with a hammer or other object.
- Bend laminate wrapped trim to fit radius contours: this will result in delamination.
- Apply wax or paint type finishes to the laminate surface.
- Manually nail laminate wrapped profiles without pre-drilling all nail holes.
- Drive or pound nails flush to or below the laminate surface without the use of a nail set.
Step & Stairway Installation
General:
Verify that steps to be covered meet local and/or regional building codes before installation
of the Overlap Step Nose molding. Stairs may need to be prepared to accept flooring and
procedures will vary depending on the particular situation. Stair treads and risers must form
90� angles for proper installation. Wilsonart Flooring products cannot be installed on curved
steps. The flooring used to cover the stair treads and risers - as well as the Overlap Step
Nose molding -must be adhered with a construction grade mastic such as Wilsonart 7190
Adhesive or Liquid Nails� LN-602.
Overlap Step Nose Molding Installation Instructions:
This profile is used to finish the flooring edge at the top of stairs, step down rooms, and stair
treads. Install the Overlap Step Nose molding after the flooring or risers are installed. The
plank/tile should be installed with a 1/8" expansion gap between the plank/tile and the back
of the profile, underneath the overlapping extension when installed as an overlap molding.
Make sure that the construction adhesive is not adhered to the floating floor at the top of
stairs or step down applications. The Overlap Step Nose molding is designed, to be adhered,
to the front of the stair tread or step using Wilsonart 7190 or Liquid Nails LN-602 type
adhesive. Stair tread applications require that both the plank/tile and overlap molding be
adhered using Wilsonart 7190 or Liquid Nails LN-602 adhesive. For a wooden step, fasten
the molding by nailing and gluing to the step with a construction adhesive, such as
Wilsonart 7190 or Liquid Nails LN-602. For metal or concrete steps, use one of the
construction adhesives listed above. No matter the material, the subfloor step should be
sound, dry, clean and in overall good condition before adhering the molding.
Installing Flooring on Stair Riser:
Risers should be scribed before the upper tread is glued into position. Risers should slip behind
the Overlap Step Nose Molding and rest on top of or behind the tread, depending on
undulation of the stair treads or risers. Risers should be glued with a construction adhesive as
listed previously.
Installing Flooring on Stair Tread:
Stair Treads should be glued with a construction adhesive as listed above. The Overlap Step
Nose trim profile is designed to be adhered to the front of the stair tread using a construction
adhesive as listed above. In addition, for wooden steps the Overlap Step Nose molding should
also be predrilled and nailed to the stair tread. (A) Nail holes should be filled with an
appropriate colored putty. For concrete or metal stairs, use a construction adhesive as listed
above and apply the construction adhesive with a full spread.
Overlap Step Nose Molding Modified for Flush Mount Applications:
The Overlap Step Nose molding profile may also be used as a flush mount stair nose with
modifications. The following steps will require a higher degree of skill level, which every
installer may not possess. Specific installation steps may vary, however, the following
procedures provide the basic information required to join the Overlap Step Nose molding flush
to Tap-N-Lock planks or tiles for top of stair, step down room, or stair tread applications.
Additional tools and equipment required for these installation procedures.
- Router
- Wilsonart Flooring dado bit
- Carbide double flute top bearing bit
- Wilsonart loose tongues
The overlapping extension of the Overlap Step Nose molding needs to be cut off. This can be accomplished by using a table saw and a sharp 60 � 72 tooth carbide saw blade (1). Make sure that the rotation of the saw blade cuts into the decorative surface. The cut edge must be clean and straight to prevent gapping between the modified molding and the plank/tile. If you cannot achieve a final clean cut with the table saw, a router and straight edge can be used to remove the overlapping extension, leaving a clean final edge.
The overall thickness of the molding can be modified to the Classic, Estate Plus, or DuoLink thickness, which will help to level the tread and minimize ledging. This can be accomplished by setting the distance between the table saw blade and saw fence to the thickness of the flooring product. Make sure that you include the thickness of the underlayment padding when installing for top of stairs and step down rooms. Underlayment padding should never be used on stair tread applications. Set the height of the table saw blade to remove the excess substrate up to the bottom of the bullnose. Next, take the molding and turn it on its side with bullnose up and decorative face against the table saw fence and run it through the table saw to remove the substrate to the desired thickness (2).
In order to prepare the Wilsonart Tap-N-Lock Technology planks or tiles to be joined to the modified Overlap Step Nose molding for flush mount applications, the following procedures are required. The extended groove profile on the Tap-N-Lock plank or tiles must be removed back to the factory decorative edge. This can be accomplished by one of the following two ways. 1) Using a table saw and a sharp 60 � 72 tooth carbide saw blade, set the table saw guide and saw blade so that the blade only cuts off the extended groove profile under the factory decorative edge (3). Be careful not to damage the factory decorative edge, as it is critical that this edge be clean and straight to prevent gapping between the plank or tiles and stair nosing. If you cannot achieve a final clean cut with the table saw, a router can be used to achieve a clean final cut. 2) Using a router and a top bearing double-flute straight bit, such as a Woodcraft Bit No. 129640, remove the extended groove profile back to the factory decorative edge. The top bearing of the router bit should be run against the factory decorative edge. The decorative factory edge that the bearing will follow is not very deep so it will require a router bit that has very little space between the bearing and the double-flute straight cutting blades.
Once the extended factory groove has been removed back to the decorative factory edge, a new groove will need to be routed using a router and the Wilsonart dado bit. This requires patience and precision in order to assure a tight fitting seam between the plank or tiles and the stair nosing. Rout a groove with the Wilsonart dado bit into the plank or tiles at the same location as the original groove (4). Next, rout a groove into the modified Overlap Step Nose molding, with the Wilsonart dado bit set at the same depth that you grooved the plank or tiles. (5)
The grooved edge of the modified Overlap Step Nose molding is glued to the groove side of the Wilsonart Flooring piece by filling both grooves with a smooth continuous bead of Wilsonart Flooring Adhesive and inserting Wilsonart loose tongues in one of the grooves. (6) After the loose tongues are inserted, put the pieces together, clean up glue and tape together to eliminate gapping between the seams. If necessary, seam levelers may be used and are the best way to ensure a flush fit of the tread. (7)
One Step� Installation
General:
- The following installation instructions are for contained stairways only (enclosed on both sides). Installation instructions for an open-ended staircase will be available upon request.
- Stairs should be prepared to accept the stair tread. Procedures will vary depending on the particular situation.
- One Step and risers (used from Wilsonart Flooring planks) must form 90 angles for proper installation.
- One Step cannot be installed on curved steps.
- One Step and risers must be adhered with construction grade mastic such as WA7190 or Liquid Nails LN-602.
Installing One Step� Stair Treads:
Verify that the steps to be covered meet local and/or regional codes before installation of the
One Step Stair Treads. The existing steps must be clean, flat, structurally sound, securely
nailed, and free of foreign matter and projections. Pre-fabricated staircases may require the
removal of, or building out the existing stair nose. The removal of the stair nose may require
cutting with a power circular saw, sawsall, jigsaw, and/or a hand saw. Be careful not to
damage or mar the existing stringers. For new construction, please discuss stair requirements
with builders/contractors to save time and preparation.
The One Step installation may start from the top or the bottom of the stairs. Regardless of which starting point is used, dry fit all treads and risers prior to adhering to the steps. If Wilsonart Flooring is used at the top of stairs, remember to scribe the riser first, before installing the One Step Tread, laminate wrapped stair nose, or step down molding. Use felt paper, scribing paper or a template system such as the Stair Wizard to make a pattern for each tread and riser. This will reduce the number of times treads and risers are dry fitted. Place the pattern or template on the One Step Tread. Use the template to transfer scribe marks to the tread. Be sure to allow for the riser and stair nose thickness. Cut the One Step Stair Treads to size with a table saw and sharp saw blade, be sure to cut so that the saw blade teeth cuts into the decorative surface. If you cannot achieve a clean, smooth cut with the table saw, a router can be used to achieve a clean final cut. Using the table saw, rough cut the One Step Stair Tread 1 /16" greater than desired mark. Use a top bearing router bit or template guide system with a straight edge for the final finish cut. Keep in mind when routing the side of the tread the maximum amount of material that is to be removed is 1 /16" wide. Start at the nose, rout from right to left (this is opposite the correct direction). Rout into the nose approximately 1/4"and stop. This will reduce the possibility of the laminate fragmenting away from the nose as the router bit exits the profile. Restart the routing process from left to right and move forward through the nose profile. With this method you will prevent any laminate blowout as the router bit exits the stair nose profile.
Installing Flooring on Stair Riser:
Starting at top of stairs:
Stair risers should be scribed before the upper tread is glued into position. The extended
factory groove of the riser should be cut off back to the decorative surface. This edge is then
set on top of the lower tread. Risers should slip behind the stair nose and support the upper
tread, holding the lower tread in place. (1) Risers should be glued with a construction grade
mastic (See Adhering Treads and Risers Section). Cut the tread width to size with a table
saw and sharp saw blade. Be sure to cut so that the saw blade teeth cut into the decorative
face. If you cannot achieve a clean smooth cut with a table saw, a router can be used to
achieve a final clean cut. Using the table saw, rough cut the tread 1 /16 " greater than the
desired mark. Use a top bearing router bit or template guide system with a straight edge for
the finish cut. The final cut of each tread and riser should be cut at least 1 /16 " shorter than
the width of the actual step. This should allow for ease of installation without damaging or
marring the stringer, as well as allowing for expansion and contraction. Splitting the
difference will leave a 1 /32" gap that should be filled with a color-matched caulk after the
gluing process is complete. Continue the installation from top to bottom. This will help
keep traffic off the stair installation
Starting at bottom of stairs:
If Wilsonart Flooring is installed on the floor at the bottom of the stairs, be sure the
1/4" minimum expansion gap is maintained. Scribe the first riser, then use scribing
paper, felt paper, or Stair Wizard to pattern the treads. Rough cut and rout treads and
risers as described previously until the stairs are complete.
Adhering the Treads and Risers:
Use a construction grade mastic such as WA7190 or Liquid Nails LN-602 to glue the
treads and risers. Full spread or the bead method is acceptable. For full spread, use a
3/32" v-notch or square-notch or similar trowel. For the bead method, apply five 1 /2"
continuous beads of adhesive along the width (long dimension) of the treads and risers.
No matter which method is used, apply a continuous bead of adhesive behind the stair
nose in the inside corner, so the riser can seat and fill in voids. (2) This will strengthen
the stair nose. Brad nailing or placing hot melt glue in a few spots will help the One
Step Stair Tread stay in place until the construction adhesive has set. For concrete or
metal stairs use WA7190 or construction adhesive only.
Repairs
Tool & Material Requirements:
In addition to the standard tools and materials needed for floating floor installation, the
following tools and materials are required when replacing a Wilsonart Flooring panel:
- Spare plank/tile and one or two extra in case of error. (NOTE: it is absolutely necessary to store the spare planks/tiles for at least 48 hours in the room where the replacement will take place prior to replacement)
- Cordless circular saw
- Felt tip pen
- Tape measure
- Vacuum cleaner
- Vacuum cups
- Hammer
- Blue tape
- Wilsonart Flooring Adhesive
- Polyethylene tape in case you damage the padding
- Wilsonart plastic spatula
- Chisel or stiff putty knife
There are two ways to replace a single Wilsonart DuoLink , Classic, Estate Plus, or Red Label Wood and Stone flooring with Tap-N-Lock technology. If the placement of the furniture allows, the laminate flooring can be removed row by row from a wall until the damaged plank or tile is reached. (below) Apply a vacuum cup to the plank/tile that needs to be replaced and gently tap the vacuum cup to release joint. Please work very carefully so as not to damage adjacent planks/tiles of the original installed floor. NOTE: Be careful with the row by row storage of the disassembled planks as they must be reinstalled in the exact location where they were removed.
After disassembly and replacement of the damaged plank/tile, use the prior
disassembled planks of the original laminate flooring and
install them as described in the installation instructions.
Inspect each plank prior to reinstallation.
Damaged plank � If the procedure as described above is
not possible because of the furniture or other
circumstances, it is also possible to replace a single
laminate plank/tile. To do so, follow the description for
plank/tile replacement.
Time �The replacement of the plank/tile will take
approximately one hour. Do not rush and follow all
recommendations, in order to successfully replace the
plank/tile.
Marking the cuts � Start off by marking the damaged
plank/tile where you need to cut. Apply blue easy-release
tape to the damaged plank/tile corners as an indicator on where to stop cutting, so as not
to damage further planks/tiles. (A)
Sawing � NOTE: Always take appropriate safety precautions when using power tools.
Before you start working you should adjust the cut depth of the cordless circular saw to the exact thickness of the plank/tile. It is absolutely necessary to avoid any damage to the padding. Yet if it still happens, correct the damage with polyethylene tape. You must keep a distance of 1 1/2". Next, using the cordless circular saw, start to cut the long and short lines as shown in picture above. Then remove the center piece of flooring by lifting up with vacuum cup.
Preparation of replacement plank/tile:
Plank � Leave the long extended groove profile intact. Remove the large single tongue
on the long side and the right short side. Next, cut the bottom of groove off to the back
of groove and the top part of groove to the decorative surface on the grooved short side of
plank. This can be done with a table saw. DO NOT forget to readjust the saw to the exact
cut depth. (B)
Tile � Leave one of the extended groove profiles intact. Remove both large single
tongues on the tile. Next, cut the bottom of the groove off to the back of groove and the
top part of groove to the decorative surface on one of the extended grooved sides only.
This can be done with a table saw. DO NOT forget to readjust the saw to the exact cut
depth. (B)
Make sure that any loose debris is removed with a vacuum cleaner so that when you test
fit your replacement plank/tile it fits correctly.
Removal of perimeter pieces:
Using a chisel, remove the remaining perimeter pieces by driving the perimeter pieces
away from the surrounding floor. Be sure that care is taken when removing the perimeter
pieces from the existing floor joints so as not to cause damage to the surrounding floor.(C)
Final Check:
In order to check if the replacement plank/tile fits the opening, you must proceed as
follows:
Do not apply glue during the dry-fitting process. Apply the vacuum cup on the
replacement plank/tile for easier handling and gently insert the plank/tile into the
opening. You have to insert the long grooved-edge first. Put the plank/tile in the right
position by using the vacuum cup and a hammer. Do not use force. It must fit without
binding. After final test fit, remove the replacement plank/tile carefully from the opening.
Gluing:
You are required to use Wilsonart Flooring Adhesive as shown in the illustration. (D)
WFA should be applied at the top of the extended groove profiles and on top of the
tongue profiles. Apply sufficient adhesive to completely seal the edges against
penetration of moisture on all sides. Now insert replacement plank/tile into opening. Be
even more careful as the whole process has to be repeated if you happen to damage the
planks/tiles during this process. Adhesive "squeeze out" should be visible along the entire
length of the seams as soon as plank/tiles are installed. Wipe excess glue off with
Wilsonart Plastic Spatula. Next, dampen a clean soft cloth with Wilsonart Flooring
Cleaner and wipe remaining glue residue. Use a dry cloth to remove any residue left by
the dampened cloth. Check the replaced panel for levelness and be sure everything aligns
correctly. If necessary, seam levelers may be used and are the best way to ensure a flush fit
of the new panel. Leave for 24 hours (no foot traffic). Finally, do a complete inspection
and cleaning of the work area.