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Problems with Finish Archives

May 31, 2007

Flaking/Bubbling Finish

Q: My wife and I just bought an apartment in March. The poly on the wood floor is bubbling, peeling and flaking off. The builder says he'll only pay for screening and 2 coats of poly which is $200.But the flooring guy says it needs sanding, sealing and 3 coats of poly which costs $749. How can I tell what I need?

Thanks for your help!
-John

A: When a finish is flaking off, it means somewhere in the application process an issue occurred. Usually this means the finish dried too quickly or that the chemicals in the finish did not set properly, although there is a myriad of other reasons that can cause this issue.

The screen process will buff the top layer of finish (rough it up/scuff it lightly) in order to apply a new layer of finish. If your having flaking issues, screening the floor will not resolve this. Your floor will need to be sanded down to remove all of the finish, then sealed and refinished. Normally 3 coats is a safe bet when doing a fresh finish, which is a good suggestion from the flooring guy you spoke to.

August 24, 2007

How Do I Fix Spotty, Uneven Finish on Laminate?

Q: In an attempt to bring a higher gloss to my laminate flooring, I have used the product Quick Shine by Holloway House. What product and method do you suggest for removing this spotty, uneven finish without causing irreparable damage to the original floor product? FYI - my condo is 6months old, in Costa Rica and the developer is only able to refer me to the distributor, not the manufacturer. Googled sites for the care and maintenance of laminate flooring have only told me how easy they are and they should not be installed in wet areas. Please help.

Kathy

A: First try regular cleaning using one of the hard surface cleaners made by BonaKemi to see if the finish applied will flake off with some cleaning. With laminate rescreening can not be done because of how it is made, so as a future preface I would not suggest adding any further finish to your floor. Should you not be able to remove the finish using a cleaner, you will want to contact the manufacturer of your laminate and Holloway House for any advice they have to safely remove the Quick Shine without ruining the manufacturer's finish.

Normally with prefinished hardwood, bamboo and cork floors, adding additional finish requires a very specific process. My guess here would be that you did not buff or rough up the current finish on the floor (part of a process known as rescreening). This allows the new layer of finish to properly adhere to the previous layer. When this is not done, you tend to run into problems such as the finish flaking off or becoming bubbled or spotty.

For other floor types, like bamboo or hardwood, rescreening your floor is what must be done to fix this problem. This process roughs up the top layer of finish on your flooring without ruining the actual flooring itself. This is something I would highly suggest hiring a professional for as it can be difficult for a DIY project. After the current top layer of finish is buffed, you will then need to apply a new layer of finish. I would heavily suggest looking into Bona’s traffic or Glitsa’s Infinity II as these are both very effective finishes with plenty of durability.

October 18, 2007

Spots on a Brazilian Cherry Floor

Q: We are building a new home and have upgraded our floors to Brazilian cherry throughout the first floor and upstairs to the loft. They are beautiful but after the final stain some of the wood planks have light spots on them almost like water spots. There are no groves in the spots only discoloration. Our builder has told us that it is the variation of color in the Brazilian cherry. We knew that Brazilian cherry would have some blond and lighter color woods. That is what we liked about it, but we didn't expect these spots in some of the planks. It is only on a few areas but is really noticeable. I have attached some pictures taken. Again this is after the last stain, there were a total of 3 coats applied.

April and James






I've tossed quite a few emails back in forth with April and James to get some information to really dig into their problem here. Typically the problem they are encountering occurs when the floors layers of finish are not buffed between coats. By roughing up the floor, this allows the new layer of finish to properly adhere. In this case the builder did everything right, sanded the floor well, buffed between each coat, gave the floor plenty of time to cure, but still they encountered these spots. April and James went in depth on this, meeting with the manufacturer of their floor to see if the wood grain could cause this, but in the end here's what is actually happening.

A: I had a conversation with Gene Decker, who is iFLOOR's commercial contract specialist, and he mentioned that he has seen this kind of problem when a finish with old catalyst in it which can cause it to set similar to what you are seeing. The catalysts used in finishes to ensure that the urethane dries at a proper rate without the necessity for direct heat. However, when the catalysts get old, they will cause spots that look white like a water spot. In the end here's the recommendation - rescreen the floor so your remove the spots of the finish, then finish with a new finish. I would heavily suggest using Bona's Traffic Finish or Glitsa's Infinity II.

December 29, 2007

Scratches in a Pergo Floor

Q: A workman at my home wanted to improve the finish on my Pergo Floor, so he applied a lacquer over it. It looked good until the dogs ran on it and the furniture moved creating many noticeable scratches. Is there anyway to remove it and bring it back to it's original finish? I didn't ask him to do it, but he thought he was helping.

Marc

A: Unfortunately in these cases, it is almost impossible to remove the added lacquer from your floor without ruining the initial finish on the Pergo. To be honest I am surprised that the lacquer actually adhered to the finish on the Pergo.

Sadly your best bet here is to keep up a regular cleaning schedule which should slightly lighten how dramatic the scratches may look over time or try to replace the floor. Now replacing the floor is quite a task (expenses being the painful part), but keep in mind most scratches will fade somewhat over time and their appearance will mute some.

June 2, 2008

Greasy Residue on Brazilian Cherry Floor

Q: We have a Brazilian Cherry floor that has developed an almost "greasy" residue on it. The floor is 4 years old, and has never been cleaned with anything other than Bona floor cleaner.

The floor was originally acid-cure finished (not our choice) and then it appears two coats of polyurethane were applied over that. We have tried everything from windex, TSP, acetone, lacquer thinner and naptha, and nothing will remove the residue. It almost seems as if the surface coat has softened and has become a greasy, smeared mess.

I have had a wood floor installer look at it, and also a mfrs rep for the finish company looked at it, and neither of them have any idea why the floor looks like it does.

Have you ever seen this problem and, if so, do you have any ideas on how to correct it?

Thank you.

I did a bit of follow-up to find out where this residue issue is occurring, how long it has been a problem, and where in the country the house is located, to help get a better idea of what is likely causing this problem.

Follow-up: The residue appears to be primarily in the high traffic areas throughout the first floor (kitchen, hallway, office, family room). Areas that are under throw rugs do not have this on them. Areas that do not have throw rugs but don't have a lot of traffice like the dining room and living room, look perfect, like they did when we moved in.

We do not wear shoes in the house, but we usually have socks on.

We are in the Chicago area.

The home was new construction in June 03. The floor was site-finished with Synteko acid cure first. When we bought the house, we asked for an additional coat of finish because we have dogs. We can't be sure, but we think they then put two coats of polyurethane over the acid cure.

The residue seemed to start appearing in about Oct 07. I had thought it was from a new detergent I used that maybe left a residue on our socks, but I stopped using the detergent and the residue seemed to continue to get worse. Everything we've tried to remove it has failed. You can actually take your nail and scrape into the surface and get it shiny again, but then if you wipe the floor down after that, it goes right back to having the greasy, smeared look again.

I would agree that it appears to be on the surface. I actually had a tech from Synteko look at it and he is the one who thought the surface coat is a polyurethane. He suggested screening the floor and re-coating with polyurethane. Quite frankly, after I read about acid-cure finishes, I was mortified that it was used on our floor. My wood floor guy isn't real excited about trying to screen the floor and put poly over it, since he's not sure how that will react with the acid cure.

Any ideas you have would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Judie S.

A: You have quite the conundrum here, but there is a solution and some explanations. I sat down for a chat with Tad A., iFLOOR's director of install, to discuss what is going on. Before we get into a solution, let's do some background to explain the most likely cause of this issue.

Now if the polyurethane coats were added shortly after the acid cure Synteko was applied, this is the most likely culprit. With any acid-based or acid cure finish, you are applying a two-part compound which is mixed, then applied. Due to how this is made, typically a hardener and sealer as your components (Synteko is this with a high enough gloss to not require further acid cure mixtures, but rather just multiple coats of this mixture over time). This initial layer only takes a few hours to dry, but it requires 90 days to cure - this is critical! During this cure period the acid-base finish off-gases. If another finish is applied over the top of this layer before it cures, even another coat of an acid cure finish, the escaping gas will get trapped, meaning that it causes a orange peel like effect with lots of small dimples across the finish. In the case of polyurethanes which are applied over the initial layer of acid-base, this off-gassing can break down the urethane. This residue you are encountering is then, broken down finish which has occurred as the formaldehyde found in the acid cure finish continues to off-gas during its curing period.

To fix this, you can try to screen the floor and apply a new coat of polyurethane, but your floor guy should be able to tell right away if a screen is not enough. When screening, if the current finish layer does not powder, but rather stays greasy and gums up the screen rather quickly, you will need to do a full sand and refinish. Screening will save you about $2 - $3 per square foot, but your floor may require a full sand down to the bare wood, then new finish applied. If this is the case (and even in the case of a screen) apply new polyurethane, water-based being your best bet. As far as finish choices, I would look into Bona Traffic as it is one of the best water-based polyurethanes in the industry. Now the good news here is that if you only need to screen, a polyurethane will adhere to an acid-cure finish (once it has finished curing), so you can stick to a environmentally safe finish.

The other cause of this residue is typically due to environment. If you happen to cook quite a bit, especially if you do a decent amount of frying (this is common in the south), then greasy residues can accumulate on the floor, but typically the cleaning regime you have tried will resolve this. Another environment issue is climate while the floor is being finished. Overly moist environments can cause problems while a finish is curing, which can result in similar issues as to what is occurring.

Basically, you will need to screen, if not fully refinish, your floor in order to rectify this problem. Once a finish gets to this point and cleaning will not remove the residue, it typically means it has affected the finish itself.

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