The Flooring Expert

Q: We have installed Westhollow cork floor in the kitchen(Monticello) and would like to add a top coat to help seal the seams and for make it more durable. What should we use? Also, can you recommend a cleaner to use on cork when necessary.
Thanks.

Lucy

A: Lucy I'll be honest when I say that I have gone to several people here at iFLOOR.com to gather up as much information for you as I can to confirm my own thoughts on this subject. When deciding to undertake any project such as this, please keep in mind it is best to consult the product's manufacturer regarding the effect it will have on your warranty and any suggestions they may have for you.

Now the easy information for you is in regards to cleaner. Bona (BonaKemi) hardwood cleaner is your best bet. This is a spray cleaner which you will want to use with a microfiber mop and it should help keep your cork looking great.

Now, when it comes to adding a coat of seal, here's where the difficulties come into play.

First I spoke with our purchaser, Ryan W., who mentioned that should you add another layer of sealant to the Westhollow Cork, the process required to add that coat would void the warranty that you have on the product. Adding a coat does not seal it, the edges are still open if there was a flood from the dish washer, so adding a coat does nothing. Ryan mentioned this analogy to me: “I would not add another coat to the finish that's like buying a new car and repainting it.”

Should you still wish to add another coat of finish to your cork I can NOT stress this enough this will void your cork floor's warranty. I would also highly suggest consulting a professional before doing this on your own as adding finish is tedious.

One precaution before we proceed here. If this cork was installed as a floating floor, applying a site finish can cause an issue where cracking or peeling of the finish will occur because of how the cork will flex at the joints from being floating. Glued down cork is a better candidate for a site finish, but as I mentioned, applying a site finish will void your warranty from Westhollow.

To apply a site finish or “sealer,” you must first screen (rough up or buff) the existing finish. This is what voids your warranty because you augment the product beyond its manufactured state. This is required in order to make the new layer of finish adhere to the floor's current finish. This can be done with a buffer, it can be done with a sanding block as well. The sanding block is similar to the BonaKemi mop pole, just with and abrasive surface, the weight of that block is enough to etch the surface lightly, and would not need any additional pressure. It is suggested to do this using the sanding block rather than an electric buffer. You should use a high grit screen anywhere from 200 grit to 400 grit to ensure you do not remove too much finish and just lightly rough the surface. This is similar to sanding a car or piece of furniture before painting. Remember, once this is done your warranty is void. (Like I said, can't stress this point enough)

In regards to suggested finishes, the one that came with the highest praise is BonaKemi's Traffic Finish. This is a great finish, but it will leave your floor with a high gloss appearance. If you wish to avoid the high gloss look, try using Glitsa's Infinity II which is a oil modified one part water based polyurethane finish and can be purchased in semi-gloss or matte gloss levels. Regardless of which product you chose to use, should you add a site finish you will want to add two coats and ensure you screen the floor before each coat.

Q: What is meant when someone says "re-screen a floor?"

A: This goes back somewhat to our question from Lucy about her cork flooring. Re-screening a floor is a way to refinish a floor without actually sanding off any of the wood surface. This is typically used with bamboo or cork flooring to refresh the finish on a floor, removing the appearance of scratches or scuffs.

To screen a floor, you must keep in mind a few things. First this will more than likely void any warranty you have on your floor's finish, so always consult your floor's manufacturer before doing a re-screen. Secondly, I highly suggest consulting a professional floor re-finisher as this is a tedious task and it requires very exacting methods to ensure no issues occur with the new finish (such as bubbling, flaking or blotchy spots).

You will start by ensuring the floor is clean, then using a buffer or sanding block and a high grit screen/sand paper (usually 200 to 400 grit) or you can use a maroon pad (320 grit equivalent), you will lightly rough up or buff the surface of the floor. The key here is light buffing to prevent the appearance of swirl marks. If you are going to use a machine to buff, ensure this is a polisher built to remove less finish. If this is done by hand, the block you are using (typically a mop head and pole configuration similar to the ones used to clean floors) the weight of the block alone should be enough to buff the surface so there is no need to apply additional pressure. This will allow a new layer of finish to properly adhere to the floor.

Then, using a proper finish that suits your desires and your floor, apply the finish. The rule here is to keep the coats thin to allow for even distribution. It is better to use many thin coats rather than thicker coats. Always ensure to follow the instructions provided by the finish manufacturer. Normally you will want to apply 2 - 3 coats when doing a full re-screen, but make sure to buff before laying each new coat of finish. Always allow proper time to dry and ensure the temperature in your home is not too high. When finish layers dry too quickly, they will cause fish eye shaped bubbles or begin to flake off because they do not adhere properly.

Remember, always consult your floor's manufacturer first for recommendations and exclusions and follow all instructions to apply new layers of finish.

Q: My wife and I just bought an apartment in March. The poly on the wood floor is bubbling, peeling and flaking off. The builder says he'll only pay for screening and 2 coats of poly which is $200.But the flooring guy says it needs sanding, sealing and 3 coats of poly which costs $749. How can I tell what I need?

Thanks for your help!
-John

A: When a finish is flaking off, it means somewhere in the application process an issue occurred. Usually this means the finish dried too quickly or that the chemicals in the finish did not set properly, although there is a myriad of other reasons that can cause this issue.

The screen process will buff the top layer of finish (rough it up/scuff it lightly) in order to apply a new layer of finish. If your having flaking issues, screening the floor will not resolve this. Your floor will need to be sanded down to remove all of the finish, then sealed and refinished. Normally 3 coats is a safe bet when doing a fresh finish, which is a good suggestion from the flooring guy you spoke to.

Q: My wife and I bought a new house that has an existing oak staircase (in excellent shape, about 7 years old), and carpet upstairs. We'd like to install hardwood floor upstairs, but we're not sure how to match it to the staircase -- first, we're not sure we'd ever be able to find the exact same colour, and, second, that colour is not really our favourite anyway. My question is: what is usually done in this case? Should we go ahead and do our new floors in our favourite colour, and forget about the mismatch with the stairs, or will that look weird? Should we also restain or re-floor the stairs to match the new floor?

Thanks!
Stan

A: There are two schools of thought when it comes to floors in a home. Either make all of the wood flooring the same, so you keep a uniform flowing appearance or have each area floored differently to give unique feels in each new room.

Since you dislike the color of the current stairs I would not directly suggest trying to match the existing floor. Wood floors will naturally darken over time, although oak is less likely to darken as drastically, some darkening has probably occurred since it was installed.

At this point you can either leave the stairs and install a floor you like in the carpeted area or remove the stairs as well and make the entire area in the floor of your choosing. If you want the more professional look (and to have the stairs in a flooring that suits your taste) I would suggest replacing the stairs at the same time. If you are looking for a different stain to the oak, you will want to get the stairs and the new floor site stained and finished to ensure it has an even color. This can be very expensive so you might want to replace the stairs at the same time.

If you choose to replace your stairs, I would highly suggest finding solid stair treads and risers for your floor if they area available as this gives a much better appearance (my example here is bamboo, but it will give you a visual idea of what to look for). It can be difficult to find solid treads and risers for many floors, but they are well worth it when you can get them.

When it comes to stairs, installation can be very difficult so I would suggest looking into a professional installer such as our team here at iFLOOR.com to make sure everything is done just right. If you plan on doing this as a DIY project, take your time and make sure you get everything you need in order ensure this install goes without a hitch. So do your homework and make sure all your measurements are dead on.

Q: We are planning to put a wood-look laminate floor in our kitchen and
foyer. This is a high traffic area. We were told it has a 25- year guarantee. At $9.60 per square foot (including installation) we want to be sure we are getting good value for quite a bit of money. Any suggestions you can give will be appreciated. Also, what would be the advantage, if any, to putting in porcelain tile? We already have ceramic tile with cracks, chips and crumbling grout.

Thank you.
Ann

A: I can't think of very many floors which would cost this much, even installed, which would run in the upper $9 range. One thing to keep in mind is that not all laminate is created equal and warranties often matter very little. What is important is to determine who makes the floor and what collection it is, then determine the laminate's AC rating as this will give you a better idea of how it compares to other floors.

As a couple comparisons. If you were to install Westhollow's South Pacific, which is their premiere line, plus 6mm cork underlayment and the gold package installation you would be spending just under $7/sf and the South Pacific has a 50 year warranty. Another quick comparison QuickStep Perspective, another premiere line, with 6mm cork underlayment and gold installation would be right around $8/sf on a product which features a lifetime residential warranty. Now keep in mind, there is some small variance here as labor costs differ from place to place, but generally speaking this is fairly accurate for some of the best laminate floors on the market with AC ratings in a commercial level.

If we take the comparisons here, the important part is the abrasion ratings. A warranty will generally tell you how much a company believes in that product, but beyond that, the important ratings are how they perform in lab tests such as taber testing. Generally AC ratings will tell you how well a floor will weather traffic - so compare these before comparing warranties as the damage caused to your average floor is never covered by a warranty.

In the end here, the floor you are looking at seems a bit spendy for laminate and I would make sure you get a bit more background on it - who makes it, what collection is it, where is it manufactured and what's its AC ratings or how did it perform in taber testing when compared to floors like Pergo Select, QuickStep Perspective and similar top tier laminate floors.