Nail-down and Staple-down Installation Guide

The oldest and most familiar flooring installation method, nail-down is a type of secure installation which directly attaches the floor to the subfloor material. The nail-down method, as the name implies, involves nailing of a 2" cleat (or nail) into the tongue section of the plank at a 45-degree angle. This process, known as blind nailing, is an easy concept to grasp, but it does take a bit of work to get used to when compared to newer installation methods today.

An adaptation of the nail-down method, a staple-down installation is a more modern alternative to this traditional secure install technique. It makes use of flooring staples that measures 1 1/2" to 2" instead of nails, and is the recommended installation method for most engineered wood floors with softwood plies. Staple-down can also be used for 5/16" solid wood floors.

As a general rule, use nails for 3/4" solid hardwood, and 5/8" or thicker engineered floors which have hard wood ply species. Nails can also be used for solid bamboo floors which are 1/2" or thicker. Staples should be used for all engineered floors, especially those with softer wood species plies, and 5/16" solid hardwood floors. Bamboo floors which are less than 1/2" thick should be stapled rather than nailed. It is highly suggested to use a pneumatic nail or staple gun with a 45-degree angle attachment for floor installations rather than doing this by hand.

These installations can only be used when installing onto wood subfloors and must be installed perpendicular to the floor joists, which is typically parallel to the primary light source in the room. Also, these installations are only suited for on-grade and above-grade installations.

If you're planning on installing using a nail or staple method, here are a few general steps you should follow:

1. Evaluate the job site and check for satisfactory work conditions

   You must remove your current baseboards or wall molding as well as any debris from the subfloor, such as carpet tacks and protruding nail heads. Make sure that your subfloor is clean, dry and level. Fix any high or low spots and make sure to fix squeaking areas by anchoring the subfloor to the joists with deck or floor screws.

2. Acclimate your flooring and conduct moisture tests

   Store the boards loosely stacked in the areas where they will be installed. Allow the flooring to acclimate for the length of time suggested by the manufacturer. Moisture test the subfloor and flooring before installation, your test should show a result between 6% and 12% and the difference in moisture content between the flooring and subfloor should be no more than 4%, though 2% or less difference is suggested.

3. Prepare the job site and your new floor

   Choose a long, straight wall to start so that the flooring’s length will run perpendicular to the flooring joists. Snap a chalk line parallel to this wall and repeat every four (4) feet. These chalk lines will serve as a guide to ensure that your floor is straight. Cull through the boards and pull boards from multiple boxes, selecting the straightest planks for your starter row.

4. Begin installation

   Lay your starting row of planks with the groove side against the wall, leaving a 1/2" space for the expansion gap. Dry fit the boards and make any necessary cuts. Ensure that this row is parallel to the chalk line laid earlier. It is highly suggested to use kraft paper, roofer’s felt, or similar resin paper between the flooring and subfloor to act as a moisture transition.

   Face nail the first row of planks, using one nail or staple per six (6) inches. After you have nailed your first row in place, begin to dry fit and rack out as many rows as possible. Ensure that each plank fits snugly. This will help you plan out your floor and position planks to gain a look which you prefer most. While racking out the floor, make sure that the planks, when snugly fit, are staying parallel to your chalk lines so that the floor remains straight and ensure the planks joints are even. Measure out and make all necessary cuts. Cull out any boards which are out of square.

5. Continue Installation

   After racking out the floor, work one row at a time, blind nailing the flooring through the top of the tongue. Planks should be nailed/stapled every eight (8) to ten (10) inches and should be at least three (3) to four (4) inches from the ends of the plank. Nailing too close to the ends may cause the tongue to crack and become unusable.

   Face nailing will be required for the last row or rows, depending on plank width. Since the angled gun will no longer fit between the wall and planks to properly blind nail.

6. After installation

   Fill all holes from face nailing with color-matched floor putty. Install transitions, trims and base moldings to cover all expansion gaps. Sweep the floor to remove any dust.

View our Hardwood Installation Video for more help with nail-down and staple-down wood floors.