Floating Floor Installation Guide

The increasing number of people engaging in do-it-yourself flooring projects has prompted the development of innovations in the manufacture of flooring products, particularly in features that will make the floors easier to install.

One of the more popular methods of installation is called the floating installation. This method has several advantages over the other, more traditional secure installation methods, particularly for those endeavoring to be a Do-It-Yourselfer.

One of the more significant developments in flooring products is the introduction of the "click-together" method. This method offers two important benefits. The first is the undeniable ease of installation, in which there is no need for any special equipment, nails or staples, or messy floor adhesives. The only materials needed for installation with the click-together method is a tape measure and a few common hand tools. This lack of need for any other material serves as the second benefit, as this significantly reduces the expense usually associated with other types of installation.

Glue-together floating floors are also an option and the installation process is essentially the same. Although these floors require a little more work than a click-together floating floor, they are far easier to install than glue-down floor types.

While experts may argue that the click-together installation method is the easiest process, there are, however, some steps to follow when installing a floating floor:

Ensure that the floor is dry
It is rarely a good idea to lay any type of flooring over damp concrete. Check the area for excess moisture. And though some manufacturers allow it, professional installers will always advise against installing floating wood floors in kitchens, full or three-quarter baths, entryways, or any other area where it might be subjected to standing water.
Prepare the area for the new flooring
Make sure the existing floor is smooth and flat before installing over it. Smooth the concrete floor by scraping off lumps and sweeping. If you plan to install over wood floors, fix squeaky sections and tighten loose boards by screwing them to the joists with deck or flooring screws. Check the floor with an 8-foot straightedge and mark any high spots or depressions you find. Sand or grind down ridges and fill low spots. If you need to sand or grind and area, ensure to consult a professional first to ensure you will not ruin the structural integrity of your subfloor by sanding or grinding down the area in question.
Make sure that there is ample space to allow the floor to expand and contract
Be sure to leave at least a 3/8-inch expansion space along the edges. Gaps can be hidden under the baseboards, or you can cover the gap with shoe molding or a quarter round. Cover the expansion space at openings or transitions to other types of flooring with transition moldings.
To allow the flooring to slide underneath, saw off the bottoms of door jambs and trim
Leaving an expansion gap at exterior doors is always a unique challenge. Older houses can afford you the opportunity of removing the threshold and notching it to allow the flooring to slide underneath. Newer exterior doors, however, allow you to butt a square-nosed transition piece against the threshold. You are now ready to lay down your floating floor.
Start laying your first board
Starting against the longest wall, begin by laying down your underlayment. The longest wall is suggested as it tends to make installation easier, but ensure that the length of your boards run perpendicular to the joists if installing over a wood subfloor. If you are installing over a concrete subfloor, lay down your moisture vapor barrier before laying out your underlayment and ensure to tape the seams. Lay enough underlayment to install several rows of flooring. Lay your first board in the corner as a start point, over the top of your underlayment.
Lay down the first boards against the wall from where you started, with the groove side facing towards the wall
If you do need to cut the first row of boards to width, cut off the groove side. Use spacers to ensure you leave a 3/8" gap between the flooring and the wall. The 3/8" gap between the flooring and the wall around the room is needed to allow the wood to react for minor seasonal variations.
Lay out the first three rows in the following fashion:
- The first board in the first row needs to be a full board.
- The first board in the second row should be 2/3 of a board.
- The first board in the third row should be 1/3 of a board.
- Fill in the rows with full boards and boards cut to fit the remaining space.
- Continue to stagger the planks as you move across the room, ensuring that joints are always at least 8" from each other.

Connect the boards together
For click-together floors, join the boards together by inserting the tongue into the groove at a high angle and then push them down. The boards should click together.

For glue-together floors, pour a thing bead of glue along the top of the tongue of the first board, then insert the tongue of the next board into the tongue ensure they fit together snugly. If any adhesive comes up from the tongue and groove, ensure to wipe it up immediately with a clean cloth which is lightly dampened with mineral spirits.

To ensure that the boards are firmly locked, tap them gently together with a hammer and tapping block.
Do not use the hammer directly on the floor
Never use the hammer directly on the flooring as this could damage the edge of a piece so badly that no other piece will be able to fit.
Continue to lay out remaining rows
Work one row at a time, ensuring the locking mechanism is properly engaged or that the tongue and groove is fit snugly. For click-together floors, if you are having trouble engaging the locking mechanisms one board at a time, try clicking together multiple boards and laying them all together. It is important to ensure all boards remain straight as they are being locked into place. For your last row or two, it will be necessary to use a pull bar to engage the boards, rather than the hammer and tapping block.
Cover the sides and gaps left during your installation
Once the new floor is down, reinstall the baseboards and moldings. Make sure they are nailed to the wall and not on the flooring itself. This should cover the expansion gaps and complete your installation. For glue-together floors, ensure that you give the floor at least eight hours for the adhesive to cure before actively walking over the floor or moving any furniture into the room. Click-together floors can be walked on right away after installation is complete.

View our Laminate Installation Video for more help with floating wood floors.